68060 rev. 6 71E41J tested and successfully overclocked to 100MHz in my Amiga 1200

I bought a 68060 revision 6 (71E41J) recently for a very good price. The rev. 6 CPU can usually do a really good overclock, often reaching 100MHz or more, which makes them very sought after and sometimes fakes are offered as the genuine version of the CPU. As I was already running an 060 in my Amiga 1200 I was not sure if it was worth swapping CPUs to gain more megaherts. The rev. 5 68060 I was running could do a 66MHz overclock but ran very hot. And a 50MHz 060 is not a slow CPU (in the world of Amiga).

Swapping 68060 CPUs in my Amiga 1200

I decided to swap CPUs because I wanted to test performance of an Amiga without a graphics card but with a fast CPU and high resolutions (like HighGFX and highres laced). Luckily removing the CPU was not a difficult task, prying on the corners of the socket it was out in less than 5 minutes ready to go into another one of my systems. Once the rev. 6 CPU was inserted into the Terrible Fire 1260 I was eager to do a test. Sure enough, it did not complain anything running at 100MHz!! (keep in mind I had a heatsink on the CPU when doing tests). Next time I will try 106MHz!!

Is there actually a noticeable difference between a 50 and a 100 MHz 68060?

Would I be able to detect any difference between a 50MHz 060 and a 100MHz 060 or would it only be noticeable in a benchmark program?

I was not too sure – When I had overclocked my 060 in my Amiga 4000TX from 50 to 100MHz I could feel that icons loaded faster, drawers just popped up, Workbench was just smoother and more responsive. But I was not sure if it was my imagination or reality.

With that said, I was surprised that my 100% non scientific mean of measuring the difference between a 50 and a 100MHz CPU in the following AGA Amiga Workbench screenmodes highres, highres laced, HighGFX @ 1024×768 (all screen modes in 64 colors) proved that there really was a difference!

Workbench had become even faster and more responsive. Running 3.1 with the stock Commodore 4 color icons, icons did not load anymore, they just popped up, almost all at once, drawers opened up instantly. The system speed by at such a high rate I had only witnessed something like this in WinUAE. What an amazing experience!

I changed background colors to 256 colors and could sense little to no slowdown from a 64 color screenmode. Sure, I have to test this more, but the early results are great, this is what base level Amiga should be like! Lets bring on 200MHz 060 (lets crowd fund it lol).

Cooling problems

Before I permanently run this computer at 100MHz I have to figure out a good cooling solution for the CPU. This rev.6 68060 runs cooler than the old rev. 5 I had in it before. But overclocking it makes it run slightly hotter. I suspect its above 50 degrees but not more than 60. I have some ideas on how to cool it down but will have to sleep on the ideas a little more before I pull the trigger on the stuff I need to build one..

Terrible Fire TF1260 CPLD cooling

I have a Terrible Fire TF1260 in my Amiga 1200. I used to have an Apollo 1240 upgraded to 060 in it and was very happy with that card (despise what other said about the card, it was very stable for me). Time marches on though and the TF1260 started to look more and more impressive, so I built one last year. The TF1260 supports overclocking by software. One comment I read was that the chances of a good overclock improved if you put heatsinks on the two CPLD chips.

Keep in mind that I had a heatsink on the 060 when doing overclocking tests. But the space between the 060 and keyboard is so tight it was very difficult finding a heatsink in my stash that would fit with the keyboard installed. I have actually not solved this yet, thus I just focused on the CPLDs and will try to solve the 060 heatsink some other day, until then it will run at 50Mhz.

The problem with the CPLD cooler is that the right CPLD need a short heatsink if you want to run a compact flash adapter over it. As you can get an impressive speed boost for the CF card by using the IDE port on the TF1260 this was off course something I would need to consider.

I had ordered these 18x18x20mm heatsinks for this exact CPLD before. The left one is the original form and the right one is the heatsink cut down and modified. I dont like to do fabricating as it gets so messy and difficult to get good results with hand tools. I will probably order a new heatsink in the correct height in the future.

Here I am test fitting the heatsink.

And here it is secured to the chip. I use a thermal pad from AlphaCool that I cut to fit myself. The thermal pad from AlphaCool is somewhat thicker than what you usually get when you order heatsinks from Aliexpress. The thicknes is 0.5 mm, the thermal pad is also softer and more gooier than regular flat thermal pad. Once secured with the AlphaCool thermal tape, these pads wont go anywhere, they are secured very firmly. I highly recommend these AlphaCool thermal tape and would use them even on the 060 with a large heatsink without no problem or worry that the heatsink would fall off (even if mounted vertical!)

So here we are, everything fits now. But to use the IDE port on the TF1260 I need to burn a custom Kickstart with ehide.device, more on that when I will get to it.

And about finding a solution for cooling down the 060? I have not got a clue, I will probably need to cut down a thin copper plate and place a heatsink on it offsett from the CPU. Not ideal, but better than nothing. A small heatpipe cooler leading heat to fins over the top of the cards close to the floppy drive would be ideal, but prototyping a cooler like that would take weeks and lots of money. I will see what I will come up with.

Multifix AGA Amiga scandoubler and flicker fixer

The Multifix scandoubler is another great hardware project by talented Amiga hardware DIYselfer Matze. Read more about the Multifix AGA scandoubler and flicker fixer here.

What is a scandoubler and flicker fixer?

In my humble opinion a scandoubler is a must have for an Amiga. It lets you display native screen modes on a regular PC monitor. A flicker fixer is great to have also, it means you can use higher resolutions screenmodes without nasty flicker. There is however less reason to use flicker fixer modes in Workbench if you have an RTG graphics card since an RTG screen is faster than a flicker fixed screen typically.

Building and testing the Multifix AGA scandoubler and flicker fixer

I have to be honest, the first time I looked at the project page I did not have a clue on how to build it. But after having finished a couple of projects and being more used to projects with less documentation I felt ready to tackle this beautiful scandoubler.

The Multifix integrates well with the GBAP2++ Amiga RTG graphics card, being able to hook up directly to the graphics board. Doing so auto switches output between scandoubled/flickerfixed output and RTG output meaning, you could run the graphics board and scandoubler in one aligned Zorro slot and video slot.

It is difficult for me to say something about the video output since on a CRT the picture quality is probably superb. I do not have a CRT so can only test on modern flat screens. And also, I am using a cheap VGA to HDMI converter that introduces lots of banding on the output. The picture quality on my TFT is not as good as I get from an Indivision or ZZ9000. But even with the cheap VGA to HDMI converter, I have seen worse banding with other VGA scandoublers and with that said, the colors are correct. Overall I am very happy even if the picture quality is not as sharp as those other devices I mentioned. And the picture quality might be even better with another flat screen or a genuine VGA screen.

OKI M5142 and NEC 42101 are also used on the Amiga 3000

Difficult to find chips

There are some chips on the scandoubler that is a bit difficult to find and it is the OKI M5142 and NEC 42101. One card uses six chips of each. As usual, some chips pop up here and there on Ebay and there are the usual places where you can find these chips (Aliexpress). If you do some research you might even find clones of these chips that are fully compatible.

ADV7120KP30 is the same chip the A4000D uses, I got 5 from Aliexpress last year for my A4000D build so had 4 to chose from.

Anyways, building this Amiga scandoubler/flickerfixer is very straight foward.

Ports and switches on the back

The backside of the Multifix AGA is kind a busy, more so than a typical scandoubler that usually only has a 15 pin female VGA port.

You might wonder why it has two USB ports, two switches and an audio port on the back. I did too, and it is not quite obvious why by reading the documentation on Git-lab. Turns out, the USB ports are powered only, meaning, you can use these for devices that uses USB power such as VGA to HDMI converters. There is a pinout on the Multifix PCB so you can hook up the USB ports to your USB card saving one bracket space. The switches disables the flicker fixer functionality and the scandoubler functionality (useful if you just want to pass through video output). And what about the audio output? I think the card picks up audio from the video slot so you might be able to get sound from here (I am not sure though).

Oh, and that bracket, it was not made by me, I found a guy on a1k.org who could sell me two (I plan to build another), I could never make one that good looking myself.

Practice makes you perfect (when building an Amiga motherboard)

Motorola 68030 25Mhz on the A3000D motherboard (ReAmiga 3000 SMC version)

I am working on a ReAmiga 3000 motherboard. I am in no rush to finish it, taking it really slow ordering one set of parts at a time. Last week I got the 68030 so I decided to solder it on the motherboard this weekend. Hopefully I will be able to do a test drive before Q1 is over!

Its called Amiga life…

Kickstart 3.2 showed a frozen image

Its called Amiga life when you power up your Amiga computer and you are greeted with an unexplainable error.

Diagrom was frozen too

You can have the most stable system ever, but that day will eventually come when something will break – either you did it yourself or something happened by itself.

That happened to me recently, my trusty A4000TX stopped working, showing a frozen screen on boot.

What had happened? I suspected it was because I removed a Zorro card with the PSU ATX stand by power not shut off, it should not, but could have. Nobody knows for sure.

After tearing down the system to bare minimum I consulted the creator of the A4000TX.

Suggestion was to remove Lisa, Alice and the VideoDAC and test them on an other Amiga (paid off to have a second A4000TX with sockets this time!).

Another suggestion was to run Diagrom with serial port output. Surprisingly the Amiga was fully working (except graphics output) in serial output!

All chips worked fine on my secondary A4000TX (that had sockets for the chips)! What else to do? Put all three chips back again and send it off for a grand inspection at someone more knowledgeable.

While desoldering the Alice chip one solder pad lifted off the PCB. Now one problem grew into a larger problem…

Always good to have spare parts at home, I scraped off the slot pad from a cheap PCIe card and super glued it to the broken pad space on the A4000TX – Then I made sure it made contact to the traces by soldering wires to it from traces.

And guess what!? After soldering all the three chips back to the A4000TX it works fine again!

C’est la vie