Building an Amiga 4000T Replica Into a PC AT Tower Case

I built an Amiga 4000T motherboard replica two years ago. It was a fun build and a great way of getting to know the A4000T model that I have had little experience with. Naturally, when the PCB was offered for sale I jumped on the possibility to buy one even though I did not really have a master plan.

A freshly built Amiga 4000T replica motherboard

An example of this no-plan setup was that I had no idea what case I would use for it. Though I assumed the situation would fix itself either one way or another in the future (as it usually does).

The A4000T is an interesting Amiga. It is the last C= Amiga computer and it is different from other Amiga models in certain areas.

For example Commodore used daughterboards for various functions and offered it in a really cool full tower that later was replaced with another style (even more cool looking) full tower by Amiga Technologies.

Difference between Amiga 4000D and Amiga 4000T

Compared to an Amiga 4000D the difference between A4000T and A4000D are:

Amiga 4000DAmiga 4000T
CaseDesktop caseFull tower case
Form factorBaby-AT (like)AT
SCSINo SCSI on boardSCSI2 on board
Zorro slots4 Zorro slots5 Zorro slots
Video slots1 video slot2 video slots
ISA slots3 ISA slots4 ISA slots
Internal speakerNoYes
DaughterboardZorro/ISA/VSSound/IO/Ports

While the A4000D is sort of Baby-AT in its form factor it does not follow PC guidelines for the Baby-AT format as it has ports soldered to it on the back and i slightly larger.

Amiga 4000T compatible cases and finding the right case

The Amiga 4000T motherboard follows the AT standard and should fit large AT cases. It can also fit EATX (Extended ATX) cases with modifications.

Original Amiga Technologies Amiga 4000T case

When I was a teenager this was the coolest Amiga case ever -I think- but from todays perspective I think it has some problems.

  • First problem, it is a huge case and the space is not really optimized well, and even if it was optimized well I would not need that much drive bays these days.
  • Second problem, it is impossible to find one. Good luck finding one!

The Amiga Technologies A4000T case was actually just a regular PC case from Enlight. There are similar cases from Enlight that occasionally pop up on Ebay that can be used but if you want the original prepare to wait and save money for the rare occasion it shows up or hope that someone makes a replica.

AT cases

Can you use AT cases for the Amiga 4000T motherboard? Yes in some cases, depending on if the case has enough space for the motherboard. In the 90ies, there was both AT and Baby-AT cases.

The A4000T is AT, it is a larger size than Baby-AT. When I researched cases I found that many full size AT towers could fit the A4000T if you ditched the internal 3.5″ bay.

Most AT cases has the DB9 and DB25 cutouts at the back for the IO module and mounting holes for the motherboard should match.

ATX cases

Can you use a modern PC ATX case for the Amiga 4000T motherboard? Yes, with some modifications it is possible to use a standard PC EATX (extended ATX) case for the A4000T motherboard.

The A4000 is a huge motherboard so it wont fit shallower ATX cases. The case has to support EATX. EATX is wider than regular ATX.

There are a few problems with going the ATX route. But all of these can be fixed by modding the case.

  1. Some screw holes for the motherboard do not line up correctly in the case.
  2. There is no space for the IO module. To be able to access mouse, joystick, parallell and serial ports from the back you will need a special A4000T ATX I/O board that is available here (or wire up ports directly to the motherboard pin header).
  3. There is no space for the disk module to be accessed from the back of the case.

PC AT tower case for A4000T case mod

A classic PC AT computer case from the middle of the 90ies

As said above I did not really have any plans on what case to use but I found this old beige PC AT case on a local trading website and I instantly thought for myself, could the A4000T motherboard fit into that?!

I thought it looked small, but after spending an hour in Photoshop adding the A4000T motherboard on top of a side pic of it it in a separate layer I thought it could actually fit inside.

Believe it or not, I actually had an AMD K6 in exactly this case almost 30 years ago. Maybe it is the same case? What comes around goes around.

The case has three 5.25″ drive bays and one external 3.5″ drive bay and two internal 3.5″ drive bays. It also has space for a front 80 mm fan. As the case will be heavily modified I expected all of the drive bays to be non usable once the A4000T motherboard is fitted inside. The case also has this unnecesarry door that slides up and covers all the drive bays. I remember it was a major PITA BITD, but it sure makes the case look clean with the door closed.

DISCLAIMER

I want to point out, the aim of this project was to find a case for an Amiga 4000T replica motherboard. As such the goal was not to make a showstopper but an actually working setup that would enable the Amiga 4000T to be used regularly and reliably. It is not the most beautiful case in the world but for real world use this project makes the A4000T motherboard usable without hunting down an unobtainium or 1000+ euro case.

Could the PC AT case be converted to fit the A4000T?

The picture above shows the case with the cover removed. Cases do not look like this anymore, it was nostalgic to see a case like this again, though I prefer modern black cases.

The AT and Baby-AT form factors disapeared from the markets almost 30 years ago and was replaced by ATX. ATX gave us bigger cases until Mini-ITX became viable alternative. Some ITX cases are the same size as Baby-AT cases. I always wanted a BoXeR in a small Baby-AT case. That never happened though and after 30 years, I think it is fine and not something to get upset about anymore, there are so many badass alternatives these days that the BoXeR is just a faded, if not very cool, memory now, if all.

The case would need a lot of work to be able to fit the A4000T motherboard

This picture shows one of the problems the case had. There was simply no way of installing the large Amiga 4000T motherboard in the case without cutting off the 3.5″ drive bays and the horizontal support shelf under the PSU at the back of the case. The A4000T motherboard is simply too tall to fit otherwise.

The back of the case

The picture from the back of the AT case shows cutouts for DB9 and DB25 connectors. The IO daughterboard can simply be installed here, however some other modifications are needed, more on that later.

Also, take notice of the keyboard connector hole that lines up with the A4000T motherboard beautifully and the 7 slot card openings that lines up with the A4000T video slots, daughter boards and Zorro slots. Inside, the motherboard almost lines up with every hole inside.

That horizontal part has to be sawed off

Another look at the inner piece I had to cut off. I do not have access to power tools so I had to come up with a way of sawing it off with a metal saw.

I do not enjoy doing sheet metal work in my living room, often it turns out really bad and amateurish looking. But sometimes you have to be bold, I think this was such a time.

Modifying the PC AT case for the Amiga 4000T motherboard

Drilling out the rivets to be able to work on the case better

To be able to do the nesesarry modifications I used a hand powered drill -that I suspect is 100 years old- to drill out the rivets for the upper side plates. This drill has been with me through many Amiga case mods during the years, a lot of Amiga case mods, maybe too many Amiga case mods.

The side plates had to have the horizontal stability plate that sat under the PSU cut off. The internal 3.5″ drive bay was easy to remove as it was just riveted to the case and just had to have its rivets drilled out.

I did not take any picture of sawing pieces off but imagine spending four evenings with a metal saw blade like a mad man. Whatever it takes.

First test fit of the Amiga 4000T moterboard in the PC AT case

I could finally do a test fit of the motherboard when the pieces that blocked the motherboard from being installed in the case was sawed off.

I was really surprised to find out that there was space left to use the upper 5.25″ drive bay even after the motherboard was installed in the case. I was really happy to find it fit the case well but there was still a ton of stuff to do. I had to push on.

As you see on the image, there is no way I will be able to use a regular AT or ATX PSU, not even an SFX PSU would fit so that was something I had to solve.

Test fit of A4000T motherboard from the front. No way most of the 5.25″ slots can be used.

Here is another image from the front from test fitting the A4000T motherboard. There is an alignment issue with the upper part of the case so I had to use shorter hex standoffs there. The case was a bit flimsy at this point as the upper right sheet was removed.

PC AT case from the back with the A4000T motherboard inside it

And here is a picture from the back of the case to see if the keyboard connector would line up with the hole for it – and it did.

The Amiga 4000T motherboard is secured to the case as most screw holes matches

Another picture that displays the space left over the A4000T motherboard.

My trusty rivet gun tool

I used this riveting tool to rivet the sides back to the case once they had been cut off and modified. I bought it back in 1999 when I was modding my then A4000D into a PC mini tower case. See that case below.

Those were the days…

And here I am almost 30 years later using it again (for the second time) for the same purpose.

Make no mistake, the rivets and riveting tool works great for securing case sides and makes for a very stable case again.

Test fitting Amiga 4000T motherboard, daughter boards and Zorro cards in the modified case

More test runs with the case, this time trying out a 5.25″ unit in the top bay

I was now at a point were I could test fit cards and other hardware in the case to get a feel for what would fit and what would not fit.

Trying out A4000T daughter boards in the case. They fit fine.

One thing that hit me is how roomy the case is, inserting full size Zorro cards is a no-brainer in this case and is a real pleasure to do. The daughter boards unique for the Amiga 4000T also fits great in the case.

The daughter boards for the A4000T line up beautifully on the back of the case.

The daughter boards can be accessed fine from the backside.

Testing out a few Zorro cards in the A4000T.

Full size Zorro cards fit without problems in the old AT case. Even my A2386SX slides in and out without problems here. That is great for being such a small case relative to the original A4000T case.

Oops, we have a problem with the gap for the Zorro card brackets.

But one problem was quickly noticeable, the Zorro boards are offset slightly. I fixed it by adding spacers under the brackets.

Finding and installing a PSU that would fit in the case for the Amiga 4000T

Chosing a Flex-ATX PSU for the A4000T

There was no space for a regular ATX, AT or SFX PSU. After an intense brainstorm session were I played with the idea of using a Pico-PSU and an laptop charger I Instead opted for a NOS thin Flex-ATX PSU.

Flex ATX PSUs are smaller than a regular PSU and are quite popular these days because of tiny PCs. This PSU has 12a on the 5V line and has a total wattage of 250W. I have always steered away from PSUs with 40 mm fans because they usually create a ton of noise. This PSU is not an exception, but the noise level is not that bad to what I have heard before.

ATX-PSU to Flex-ATX PSU converter plate

So how do you fit an Flex-ATX PSU to an AT/ATX case? I found this ATX-PSU to Flex-ATX PSU converter on ebay. It is a thick plate of aluminium and makes it possible to use the Flex-ATX PSU in a normal case.

Flex-ATX PSU installed and working in Amiga 4000T PC AT case conversion

The adapter plate fit great and holds the Flex-PSU securely in the case.

The Flex-ATX PSU saves a lot of space inside the case

This picture shows that there are plenty of space for the A4000T P8/P9 power connectors and the turbo card. As the Flex-ATX PSU is short the case can still take a full length 5.25″ drive in the upper bay.

The PSU cables takes up a lot of room in the case and are not needed

One problem with the Flex-ATX PSU was the cables. They were long and took up a lot of space in the case. Just look at the image above. What is not shown is the AT to ATX adapter taking up even more space.

Cables for the Flex-ATX PSU are seen pruned

So I cut off cables I would not need. I also wired the AT to ATX adapter directly to the PSU and shortened cables. This made a huge improvement to cable management in the case.

The AT to ATX converter was wired directly to the Flex-ATX case.

A picture from the top shows cables neatly tucked under the PSU. I saved some SATA power cables because you never know, could be usefull in the future.

Wiring up the I/O board to the A4000T motherboard

Test fitting I/O board, that is missing 25p DB connectors

The I/O board gave me a couple of problems. The first problem was to find suitable D-SUB connectors. The D-SUB connectors on the Amiga 4000T I/O board has to be a little bit taller than regular straight D-SUB connectors as otherwise the I/O PCB board will hit the case.

DB25 pin F/M straight connectors with hex nuts glued on to them

The D-SUB connectors I got was quite expensive but options were few. The only ones I found was D-SUB connectors without threads for the hex nut so I had to glue nuts to the D-SUB connectors with Epoxy glue. It was a nasty solution but works.

Extended straight DB25 connectors

I used a strong epoxy glue and let it cure for a few days. The picture above clearly shows the extended D-SUBs needed.

40p headers are desoldered and waiting to be soldered to the back of the I/O board

During a test fit of the I/O board I found out that there was no space for the pin header. The I/O board is hooked up to the A4000T through two 40 pin cables called short and long. The pin header is usually facing down from the board on the front side but that would not work as the they would hit the case.

So what I did was that I desoldered the angled pin headers and soldered straight pin headers to the back of the I/O board instead.

Amiga 4000 I/O board with pin headers soldered on the back of the board

Then I ordered four 20 pin single row cables from AliExpress and hooked everything up. As it was not entirely clear how to exactly mount the cables I accidently hooked them up wrong.

But after thinking really hard for 30 minutes (including drawing up a routing scheme) I figured out the right way the cables should be mounted and everything worked as is should. Please keep in mind that the cable is installed in the wrong direction on the picture above and below! This part of the project was extremely confusing for some reason.

A4000T I/O board finally mounted with short cables

I am very happy with how it turned out. However I would prefer 40 pin cables as they are easier to insert and remove. Maybe I will wire up custom 40 pin cables in the future because these 20 pin cables need a lot of force to be inserted correct into the pinheaders.

Modifying the 3.5″ drive bay to fit the case with the A4000T motherboard installed

3.5″ floppy drive for the Amiga 4000T mounted in its drive cage

I do not use floppy drives anymore but I had this 1.76 MB floppy drive in my stash that I got in a trade for free and thought why not. Could come in handy in the future. To fit the drive bay it had to be cut on one of the sides to make way for the motherboard and I had to figure out a way of securing it to the case as it was riveted to the case.

The drive cage has a PC speaker that the A4000T has a pin header for

Interestingly it has a small speaker on the underside. The small speaker actually comes in handy since the Amiga 4000T has a pin header on the motherboard for a speaker that can play Paula output (controlled by the turbo button).

How the 3.5″ drive bay was mounted to the case once it was modded

To secure the 3.5″ drive bay I screwed it down on one side with a nut and screw. As the 3.5″ floppy drive sits a bit tight in the front of the case it does not really matter that only one half is screwed to the case. It is not perfect, it is a bit flexy when ejecting floppy disks but works fine.

How the floppy drive looks like on the front of the A4000T case

And here is the Amiga floppy drive installed in the A4000T case. Now, what to do with the upper 5.25″ bay?

Installing something in the 5.25″ bay

I installed a CD-ROM drive in the upper 5.25″ bay just for completion purposes. It is not like I actively use CD-ROMs anymore. I would prefer a ZuluSCSI or Compact Flash bay here instead and will probably exchange it in the future for that.

Installing power button

Installing a power switch for the A400oT

With all DIY projects there are problems that needs to be solved, even with a silly power button. The screw holes for the power button did not fit the case so I super glued hex brass nuts to the front and screwed down the power switch to them.

I did try to find a better fitting power switch but found nothing that would fit better.

Figuring out a better way of mounting the Amiga 4000T motherboard to the case

Experimenting with hex standoff nuts and plastic plugs to securing the A4000T motherboard

Some mounting holes on the motherboard lined up with hex standoff nuts already installed for installing the motherboard in the case. There was also space for these plastic plugs. I was disappointed that the motherboard was not really that securely attached to case with the mounting solution of a few brass hex standoffs and plastic plugs so I looked for an alternative.

Going the hex standoff nut and spacer route to secure the motherboard to the case

What I came up with was to use two washers and a brass standoff with a slightly longer thread.

Brass hex standoff and spacer

Here is a hex standoff with a washer.

This is how I secured brass hex standoffs to the case where the hole was too big

And here is how the brass hex standoffs are secured to the case by screwing it down with a nut having the case back wedged between two washers. I put Loctite on the threads to make them stick and I also glued washers to the case before screwing them down tightly.

All brass hex standoffs secured to the case, time to install the A4000T motherboard

This is a great picture that shows all mount points for the motherboard. What I especially like is the full support around the ISA and Zorro area. Inserting or removing a Zorro card leads to minimal flex in the motherboard or the case. Inserting and removing Zorro cards is pure pleasure in this case, even bridgeboards thats slots into both the Zorro and ISA slot. Please note that there are hex standoffs on the upper area too, the A4000T motherboard is huge!

Amiga 4000T motherboard fully secured to case

The Amiga 4000T motherboard is fully secured in the AT case. I thought everything was fine but I had just created a big problem, can you guess what?

Fixing offset problems for daughter cards and Zorro cards

The problem was that adding a 1 mm washer under the hex standoff pushes the motherboard further out. That meant that cards did not sit flush against the back of the case.

Off course I could have fixed this with shorter brass hex standoffs. But as they were already screwed down tight and glued and loctited I just decided to find another solution. And that was to add some thin washers under the bracket for the daughter boards.

Kinda weird but the Zorro boards sits further out than the daughter boards. So I needed thicker spacers here. I do not know what it is but no matter what Amiga project build I work on I always have problems with offset cards in all my builds – so I was not surprised here.

I used epoxy glue to fix them to the back. It is possible to 3D print something to fit here or to order some custom machined plate. Maybe in the future. It might look naff but the spacers actually work, cards sit very solid in the case.

Final thoughts

The A4000T is populated with some Zorro cards and a BFG9060.

While the build is not finished yet, the case sure is. In its current state it has a Multifix scandoubler, and a Matze graphics card. A 256MB memory card and a Zorro-LAN-IDE card. There is also an AmiGUS in it and a cool red BFG9060. There are small things to do here and there like cleaning up the cables, adding power to the CF adapter and installing a ZuluSCSI, a bridgeboard with ISA cards will also go into this case. Building a bad-ass PPC workstation is also a potential future for this build as it has the potential for much better case cooling than the A4000D has.

And I must not forget, I need a boing ball badge for the front.

Changing heatsink on the TerribleFire 1260 in my Amiga 1200

TerribleFire 1260 with heatsinks. A taller/longer heatsink wont fit on the 060 with the case closed.

I just updated the heatsink on one of the CPLDs on the TerribleFire 1260 in my Amiga 1200.

The modified heatsink on the TerribleFire1260.

The heatsink I used was modified so that the compact flash adapter I had could be fitted on the TF1260. And it was so ugly.

The new compact flash adapter doi not need a modified heatsink on the CPLD closest to it.

Not that I would see the heatsink when I used the computer. But it still bothered me. So I ordered a new heatsink and installed it instead.

Ahhh… much better. The more heatsinks, the better!

And tadaaa suddenly my Amiga 1200 is dangerously close to being finished!

PowerShark USB-C Amiga Power Adapter

PowerShark Amiga Power Adapter for USB-C PSUs

I finally got my hands on the PowerShark Power Adapter for the Amiga 500/600/1200. There are many PSU options for wedge Amigas these days but the PowerShark power adapter in combination with a USB-C PSU for the Amiga was a nobrainer for me to choose because of two reasons: It is USB-C and it has a power switch close to the Amiga 1200.

USB-C Amiga PSU

I highly suspect USB-C will become even more widespread in the future for retro gear, not just for Amiga computers. I suspect most vintage hardware will be able to be modded or will be able to made run on USB-C with some hardware device – meaning, one main PSU could drive many devices instead of having multiple aging PSUs.

The power switch situation

Having a power switch close to the Amiga is a luxury. No need to reach for the switch on the floor anymore.

Lets take a closer look at the PowerShark Power Adapter for Amiga

Top of the PowerShark Power Adapter, notice the USB-C socket in the mouth of the shark

The PowerShark power adapter is a neat little piece of hardware that inserts into the power socket on the Amiga 500, 600 or 1200. It has a LED that lights up in either red or green, red if the PSU driving it fails or green if everything works. The plastic shell is quite nice and looks professional.

Back of the PowerShark Amiga USB-C Power Adapter

The backside of the PowerShark power adapter for the Amiga has a small on/off switch and the USB-C socket for powering it from the USB-C PSU.

Sideview of the PowerShark Amiga PSU USB-C Power Adapter

The side view shows its small size. The size of the PowerShark is 25 x 27 x 58mm.

How to power the PowerShark Power Adapter for the Amiga?

A regular USB-C phone charger PSU and an old Apple USB-C Macbook charging cable

The PowerShark has to be fed power from a USB-C PSU. As you may know Amiga runs on different voltages so PowerShark Power Adapter has to be fed 12v. The 12v then gets converted into the different voltages the Amiga needs to run in the PowerShark. That means the USB-C PSU has to provide 12v or else it wont work.

Besides providing 12v the PSU has to provide enough amps or else there wont be enough power to power up the A1200 (a 5w phone USB-C charger wont run an A1200).

I tried with my laptop charger and it did not work because it did not provide 12v. But another USB-C laptop charger I had worked fine since it could provide 12v. If in doubt, it is usually specified on the charger if the USB-C PSU outputs 12v.

I also tried with a low end Apple charger (5-7w IIRC) and that did not work either as expected, the PowerShark just got a red LED.

For testing purposes I fell back on this 20w USB-C phone charger i found at home pictured above. I will for sure upgrade to a more beefy USB-C PSU later but for now this will do fine.

There are some details on the homepage about the USB-C cable that you should use. I just took the safe route here and used an old Apple USB-C cable that powered an old Apple laptop i had years ago.

A nice cheap alternative is to get the RaspberryPi 5 27w USB-C PSU. But that one seems not to be available in black.

PowerShark USB-C Power Adapter on my Amiga 1200

As my main Amiga 1200 is black I wanted a black PowerShark and I think it goes well together with it. It sticks out a bit at the back but it is not that bad I think.

PowerShark USB-C Power Adapter on my Amiga 1200 powered on and running fine

The Amiga 1200 I used for testing consists of the following hardware and is my main A1200 (and the Amiga that gets the most use by me except the A4000TX):

  • ReAmiga1200 1.5
  • TerribleFire 1260 128MB/060@100Mhz
  • Indivision MK3
  • Solas + one LED strip
  • MicroniK floppy drive
  • 4GB Compact Flash
  • PicoWyfy
  • MouSTer + USB adapter for mouse

How much power does an Amiga 1200 use

Running a fractal generator stresses the 68060 CPU a lot

I wanted to test the stability of the PowerShark and came up with a mini test. I got an idea to run a few programs that pushes the Amiga 1200 hard. I ran both Quake and Quake 2 for a few minutes and also ran a fractal generator on my A1200 with 68060. Everything worked fine – keep in mind this was not a 24h test, but more a half hour test.

Power meter measuring the watt usage of my A1200 powered by PowerShark

I got this power meter years ago and it is quite fun measuring devices. While pushing the A1200 above hard the watt meter tops out at 23w. During idle it sits between 18-20w and during regular use around 21w.

My USB-C PSU is rated at 20w so I wont run this setup permanently as that cant be too good pushing it too hard but its interesting that stability was not an issue.

My Amiga 1200 computers, one basic one not so basic in setup

But that got me into thinking, how much power would a regular Amiga 1200 draw. I have a backup A1200 that is completely stock (except its also a ReAmiga 1.5).

This A1200 has: A CF adapter without CF card and a 3.5″ floppy drive, other than that, its completely basic.

Power meter measuring the watt usage of my basic A1200 powered by PowerShark

And here it is powered by the PowerShark Power Adapter and is hovering between 9 to 11 watts.

Final thoughts

I have no regrets, this is a great addition to my Amiga 1200.

You could say it is an expensive solution since the PowerShark costs 80 euros and you need to get a USB-C PSU (and USB-C cable if PSU does not have one) so that adds to the price.

You could also say it is a complex device because you need to have a specific 12v USB-C PSU that can provide sufficient amps. There are many great options for USB-C PSUs mentioned on the website and for the average Amiga user I highly suspect this is not a real problem.

It is what it is but I think that you pay a little bit premium to have a modern solution and that is something I happily will do. I would happily pick up another one if I was knee deep in wedge Amigas only!

SMB2FS setup on AmigaOS 4.1

I got an WIFI adapter for my Sam440EP last year. Since then I have wanted to get SAMBA shares up and running on the Amiga for easy file transfers and accessing data that lives on my workstation from my Amiga.

I played around with SAMBA for Amiga as early as 1998 when I bought an Amiga 3000 with an ASDG LanRover card (for 50 euro). I never got it going though as the SAMBA archive on Aminet was confusing to follow.

How I got SMB2FS working on AmigaOS 4.1

Getting SMB2FS working on AmigaOS 4.1 took a few tries…

First of all, a small disclaimer – this is how I got access to PC SAMBA shares on AmigaOS 4.1 working, it might not be the default way of doing it but it worked for me. I tried a lot of different configurations until this one worked.

Before doing the installation I recommend to double check that both machines can see each other on the network. That is done by pinging the PC from the Amiga and vice versa. To find out the IP number on the Amiga, I typed inshownetstatus in CLI. Once ping confirmed both computers shaking hands with each other, I decided to continue.

Step 1 – Download and install SMB2FS

The first thing I did was to download SMB2FS from OS4Depot. Once download I clicked on the install icon. Unlike the SAMBA installations of old on Amiga SMB2FS is much easier to setup and lets you add shares on the Amiga only. Seems like you do not have to be a Unix expert or MCSE geek to get it going anymore.

Step 2 – Adding a dosdriver for the share

I have removed username and my password (12345678AB) from the pic above

The next thing I did after installing SMB2FS was to copy a dosdriver in sys:storage/dosdrivers. I renamed the dosdriver to SMBShare. Then I opened the dosdriver in notepad and added:

Handler   = L:smb2-handler
StackSize = 65536
Priority = 5
GlobVec = -1
Startup = "smb://username:password@ipnumber/share-on-pc VOLUME=volume-name"

Where:

  • Username = The username for logging in to my workstation running Windows 11.
  • Password = The local password I use to log into my workstation.
  • Share-on-pc = The name of the folder that I shared on my workstation.
  • VOLUME = The name the shared volume should have in AmigaOS4

Some notes here that I would have been glad if they were specified somewere.

  • The username is the name you see when you open a command line on Windows.
  • The password has to be a local password, it wont work with a Microsoft password (the password you use for you Microsoft account).

As I understood it you should then add a default tool “c:mount” to the icon and add “activate=1” to the tooltype of the dosdriver. If you drag it over to sys:devs/dosdrivers/ and reboot then you would see the share on the desktop. But it did not for some reason work for me.

Note:

What worked was setting tooltype “activate=0” and then activating device in shell like typing in “smbshare:” (if that is what it was named to). But I wanted the share to auto mount during startup.

Step 3 – Starting the share

Network-Startup is like User-Startup for network applications

I got it the share to mount if I kept the dosdriver in sys:storage/dosdrivers and mounted the dosdriver from CLI by running “mount replace dh1:storage/dosdrivers/smbshare” (if you wonder why sys: is dh1:, that was an error by me during installation, off course it should be dh0:).

So I added that line to Network-Startup inside S: (not sure if you have to add run >NIL: but did not try without). During testing, I had to add replace to the mount command. Not sure why, but that is why I added it to the line here.

Step 4 – Trying out Windows 11 SAMBA share on AmigaOS 4.1

The SAMBA share is added on the Workbench desktop and behaves like a regular device

After a reboot the share popped up on Workbench! The share from the PC is the bottom device “MP3”. I have added an icon to the share otherwise it defaults to the regular AmigaOS 4.1 HDD icon. The share can be snapshotted wherever I want it on the desktop.

Accessing folders on the share is no different than local drawers

I have two drawers from the share open here on my AmigaOS4.1 desktop. One showing the top level of the SAMBA share and one of a sub folder. Opening folders in the share can take some time if there are many files inside them, but it is not that bad.

Having access to shares on another computer makes file transfers quick!

I have dragged an MP3 file to AmigaAMP that plays the tune from the share over the network. Occasionally there is some lag. I think that is because I am running a wireless adapter, but it is not that bad.

Next steps

  1. Install SMB2FS on my 68k Amiga systems. DONE, it was almost exactly the same procedure.
  2. I would also like to share the full Amiga partitions to my workstation, that way I would for example be able to edit s:user-startup or restructuring partitions or add/remove files from my PC.

N2630 Amiga 68030 CPU card metal bracket

N2630 metal bracket

N2630 is a great 68030 CPU card you can build yourself for the Amiga 2000 or A2000EATX project. You can find more information about the N2630 project on the website here.

N2630 CPU card with 3D-printed bracket (that has a part broken off)

There is a model for a bracket for the N2630 that you can 3D print. I did that but it was too flimsy and eventually broke in two pieces.

I was planning on ordering a 3D metal print of the bracket from JLC but heard of arymanx on Amibay who had made a small batch of metal brackets for the CPU card. In this hobby, you have to act fast, or the chance might never come up again so in less than a week a shiny metal N2630 Amiga 030 CPU card bracket arrived to me from UK.

If you are interested in a metal bracket for the N2630 too, feel free to contact arymanx directly about it on AmiBay.

Another view of the N2630 metal bracket.

Its just a bracket, but is a great reminder of that it is the small details that makes a DIY build great.

Metal bracket mounted on to the N2630, my A2000EATX is in the background.

I mounted the bracket to the N2630 with two screws and nuts. The nuts got a drop of blue Loctite to hold them secure. Fitment was excellent.

Back of my A2000EATX. One slot left for a NIC.

Not only does it hold the card better in the case it also looks better.

Pay no attention to the nut wedged between bracket and case. The CPU slot I used when building my A2000EATX motherboard was taller than a regular CPU slot used on the Amiga 2000 making the CPU card sit further out from the motherboard.

Installing 3DFX Voodoo 4 in Amiga 4000D with Firebird PCI daughterboard

Amiga 4000D setup for PCI card installation and test run

Here is my Amiga 4000D with PCI slots. It has an Firebird daughterboard that has PCI slots, Zorro slots and one video slot. More information about the Firebird PCI boards here.

Firebird PCI daughter board for Amiga 4000D

This is an older picture of my Firebird PCI daughterboard with no cards mounted to it to get a better look at it. This was before it was fully built, that is why it only has one PCI slot.

I tried PCI on the Amiga years ago on my A1200 with a Mediator A1200LT – I was not sold on the concept as I felt the performance was lacking. Since then I wanted to give PCI on the Amiga a fair chance again and so I had to get the Firebird to try out PCI on a big box Amiga properly!

3DFX Voodoo4 PCI

Here is a 3DFX Voodoo 4 PCI graphics cad I got years ago, back when they sold for a reasonable sum. It has spent close to 15 years in storage. Along the way it got a capacitor knocked off (that I am pointing on). I replaced the capacitor, added a heatsink and fan to it and hoped that it would still work.

Amiga 4000D with PCI cards, Zorro cards and a video slot card

Here is a closeup of the Amiga 4000D with the Firebird PCI board holding the Voodoo4 PCI card and a PMC carrier holding a PPC card. I will make a separate post about the PPC card in the top slot in the future. The other cards you see is a purple Multifix-AGA, GottaGoFaZt3r and a CPLDICY.

Testing Voodoo 4 PCI RTG output in Workbench with HippoPlayer

…aaaaand surprise, the 3DFX Voodoo4 PCI graphics card worked!! Installation went really smooth even if it was not a simple point and click installation.

Looking at the cards listed on the PCI bus

There is only so much time on the weekend so I ran out of time installing the PPC card, hopefully I will look into it next time. I will also need to set up an automatic switcher between RTG and scandoubled output. As usual, you are never done in this hobby….

Daily soup of Amiga Custom Chips

A set of custom chips from an Amiga 1200 resting in a plate of IPA

Bought a rotten non working Amiga 1200 motherboard recently and spent the evening desoldering and cleaning up the Amiga custom chips. TBH I was only after the Alice chip… hope it works!

Update on the Amiga custom chips: 2026-02-01

Amazingly, all chips was confirmed working! Especially considering the motherbaord that I desoldered the chips from looked like this (warning):

A thick layer of dirt covering the A1200 motherboard. I especially like the unmatched Kickstart chips!

This is how I tested the Amiga custom chipset, I have an ReAmiga 1200 with sockets for the custom chips so I could just swap the chips on it and give it a go in Diagrom. I bought this Amiga 1200 motherboard built by someone else. I do not recommend building it with sockets, but for testing purposes it is fine.

ReAmiga 1200 with sockets for Amiga custom chips

Some Amiga activites I have worked on in December

I have worked on some small things here or there on my Amiga computers. Here are some noteworthy things that has kept me busy.

Installation of an 2.5″ angled CF adapter in my backup A1200

These angle 2.5″ CF adapters were popular 20 years ago

I found angled 2.5″ CF adapters on AliExpress. I have been looking for these for quite some time. They can not work if you have an Indivision AGA in your A1200 but if you do not have one they offer a great reliable way of running an internal compact flash drive in your Amiga 1200. There was only one problem:

This one has a pin blocked, probably to keep you from frying it by mounting it 180 degrees wrong

They came with one pin blocked. I used a small drill to drill into the blocked pin and realised that it was only the top layer that was blocked. Next step: try it out in my backup A1200.

How nice, a genuine C= Amiga 1200 case and keycaps

My backup A1200 has 3.1 Kickstart roms so I had to upgrade the Kickstarts before trying an Workbench 3.2 installation. So the next step was to flash some roms with AmigaOS 3.2.

FlashROMs are programmed with DiagROM and Kickstart 3.2

Here are the FlashROMs. I decided to flash DiagROM and Kickstart to them as they can hold two ROM images. It is very handy to have DiagROM availble if needed.

A white ReAmiga 1200 matches the case nicely

My backup Amiga 1200 looks like a regular A1200 on the outside but inside it is a white ReAmiga 1200 that I built a couple of years ago.

The more LEDs the better

Here the FlashROMs installed. But it failed to boot into the Kickstart screen, DiagROM worked though. So out came the T48 programmer and FlashROM adapter again. It was impossible to flash the FlashROM again. After 30 minutes of fail checking I realized that I used the wrong USB-A cable for the T48. After swapping cables the correct ROM image was flashed and everything worked.

The ReAmiga 1200 has a kickstart switch built in it

The ReAmiga 1200 has a nice Kickstart switch feature that you can enable. If enabled you can chose between two different ROM images through a jumper. If you do this with a FlashROM you do not need to jumper the FlashROM. As you can see, I never bothered to solder on the fan headers.

The angled 2.5″ CF adapter fits the A1200 motherboard fine

Here is the CF adapter mounted on the internal 2.5″ port of the ReAmiga 1200. Booting off of a WB 3.2 installation it worked fine.

I am using an old school external 23 pin scandoubler, thats why the image is a bit dull

Making the ReA4091 work with a BFG9060 clocked at 100 MHz

ReA4091 SCSI2 Zorro 3 card

I had problem with my ReA4091 SCSI card when running my BFG9060 68060 turbo card at 100 MHz. The Amiga 4000TX worked fine if the BFG was clocked at 50 MHz but at 100 MHz the system refused to run stable giving me filesystems error instantly in Workbench.

This is not a new problem as many other has had it. But at the same time, many have gotten A4091 and a BFG with a 060 clocked at 100MHz working without trouble.

I got a heads up about a thread on github discussing possible solutions to this problem. You can find it here. One suggestion there is to reprogram U305 with the file from here.

Apparently this fixed the problem for the user who suggested it on github with a drawback of 10% less SCSI performance.

BFG9060 with 68060 rev. 6 clocked at 100 MHz

I did not have anything to lose so I decided to give it a go by flashing the little PLCC chip with the file suggested. To my surprise it actually made my hardware setup stable again at 100 MHz! Now that I have put in a few hours in my system I can confirm that it runs stable (and now more than 6 months later I can confirm that it has been working great).

This particular build consists of an A4000TX, BFG9060 with a rev.6 68060, ReA4091 with a ZuluSCSI compact, there is also a ZZ9000 graphics board in the setup. It is my main setup.

Solas + ISA board installation in my A4000TX

I have a Solas LED controller in my A4000TX, it is hooked up to an ISA carrier and is connected to the clock port on the Zorro-LAN-IDE card. It took a while to figure out how to connect them together and to get sound into the Solas. But after tinkering with it for a few hours it is working fine now.

The sandwich card of the Solas carrier and Solas is too thick though, making it difficult to run a full size Zorro card over it, I am thinking of soldering them together to decrease the height of the card sandwich. It could either be the greatest thing ever or the greatest disaster ever, I will need to flip a coin on how to proceed with this idea.

Second A2386SX board built and tested

I like to build things I like in pairs that is why I did not hesitate when I was given the opportunity to build a second A2386SX clone again. You can see some more pics in the previous link. I do not think I will build more of these boards as they have given me a tough time both in getting them working and in sourcing components for them.

A4000T AT case mod

Mid size PC AT case from 1998

I did not hesitate to jump on the train when an A4000T replica PCB was offered for sale on Amibay a few years ago. Building it was a lot of fun and also fascinating. The A4000T is after all the final official 68k Amiga computer released.

I was too naive expecting a case to show up by itself. Now I realize it might never show up so I decided to look for solutions. There are ATX options but I wanted to try an old AT case first.

The universe was aligned with my third eye and suddenly an AT case manifested itself on a local trading place. But the struggle is real, nothing comes without pain and struggle. The A4000T motherboard is huge, it wont fit this case without some cut fingers on old sharp PC case sheet metal edges and serious case modding. And I hate hardcore sheet metal case modding and cutting my fingers on old shitty PC cases.

The A4000T motherboard actually fits inside this case, but it will take some serious case modding to make it happen!

But once modded though, the 5.25 bays the case has wont be usable any more. It wont be able to take an AT or ATX PSU anymore either. But hey, when it is fully modded, at least I got a case for the A4000T where the daughter boards line up perfectly on the back of the case. I just need to figure out how to mod this case in the simplest way possible.

Mini-ITX case for Alicia 1200

I built my Alicia 1200 last month. It was time to decide what case to use. Alicia 1200 is an Amiga 1200 clone in a Mini-ITX form factor so it was only natural to try and find a suitable ITX case to mount it in. It is difficult to chose a case when you don’t know future configurations of the machine. I am expecting to add a CPU card in it but do not expect it to grow that much in height. Thats why I went looking for a low Mini-ITX case.

Alicia 1200 motherboard mounted inside a Morex 557 Mini-ITX case

I chose to install the motherboard in a Morex 557 Mini ITX case. It is small case just slightly longer and wider than a 17 x 17 cm Mini-ITX motherboard. In these kind of cases you have to use a Pico PSU with an external adapter. Where I am from a genuine Pico PSU is quite costly but I was happy to find a reseller in EU who had genuine Pico PSUs for a very reasonable sum of money. I got two, one for the Alicia and one for the Denise in case I would need a better Pico PSU for it in the future instead of the cheap knock off.

120w Pico-PSU is powering the Alicia 1200

The Pico PSU sits very tight against the case but it fits with a millimetre to spare!

Morex 557 Mini-ITX case

I don’t think you can find a smaller size case than this and that is why I like Mini-ITX. The case is also well ventilated, perfect for passive cooling.

Two Morex 557 cases, one for my Alicia 1200 and one for my Sam440ep OS4 machine

I already knew about this case since I use it for my Sam440ep. Maybe I will get a third one for my Denise.