Bless its FPGA, steady its clocks, and let no obscure hardware erratum stand between us and Workbench.
Soften the hearts of the keepers of AmigaOS 4. Move Hyperion, A-EON, the owners of ExecSG, the driver writers, the kernel hackers, and whoever else must sign whatever mysterious agreement has prevented sensible things from happening for the last twenty years.
Grant unto Mirari:
a working ExecSG boot, proper memory management, PCI support without suffering, networking without ancient chipsets, sound without ritual sacrifice, graphics acceleration worthy of the name, and USB that simply works.
May the first boot not stop at a black screen.
May serial debug reveal something useful.
May the developer who says “this should be quite straightforward” actually be correct.
Protect us from abandoned repositories, half-finished ports, forum announcements followed by seven years of silence, and hardware that exists only as a prototype photographed at an Amiga show.
Let AmigaOS 4 run natively on Mirari, not through emulation, not through an experimental compatibility layer, not at three frames per second, but gloriously, pointlessly, beautifully native.
And when Workbench finally appears, let there be no immediate argument about whether the machine is a real Amiga.
Give us instead one quiet moment to open a drawer, drag a window around, and appreciate that the impossible thing actually f”g booted.
In Exec we trust. In Mirari we hope. In compatibility we pray.
Amiga wireless joypad, the Commotron Turbo 2000 Super Deluxe Wireless Gamepad Controller
The Commotron Turbo 2000 Super is a modern wireless joypad that works on the Amiga, ST, ZX-Spectrum, C64 and other systems that use the familiar Atari style DB9 connector.
I have been looking for a wireless Amiga joypad for years and this looked like a great alternative especially since you could use a firebutton as a substitute for pressing up on the d-pad.
The wireless Amiga joypad is clearly styled from the NES joypad (which is a good thing IMHO)
I am not a huge gamer anymore but occasionally from time to time it can be fun to play an old (or new) game on the Amiga. I prefer to use a joypad these days to play Amiga games but have had some success with various joysticks through the years.
Joypads and joysticks I have used before
Back in the day I liked to use a Sega Master System joypad, I remember it had two buttons (that a surprisingly amount of games actually used) and a d-pad that worked relatively well. I can not remember anything negative about using a Sega Master system joypad other than it got worn out and failed to register directions after many heavy duty gaming sessions.
For the past years I have been using a Commodore CD32 joypad that I got in NOS condition from a local shop a few years ago. I really like the CD32 pad. It has a decent d-pad, great buttons and is the official Amiga joypad. It is also great for playing Doom because you can strafe with the shoulder buttons. It is however not perfect as it can fail registering diagonal button presses on the d-pad.
One of the most famous joysticks in the nordic region was the Suncom Tac-2 (the original version with the steel shaft off course, not the cheap plastic shaft version). Naturally the Tac-2 has passed my hands too, it is a nice joystick but had to be modded to make fire buttons more responsive. These days I can not play games with a joystick like that anymore but sure the beige Tac-2 looks so bad-ass besides the late gen C64, probably why it is commanding hefty prices on action sites these days.
So the question is, is the Commotron Turbo 2000 Super the perfect Amiga joypad?
Ranking the Commotron Turbo 2000 Super wireless Amiga joypad
This are the things I was looking at in a gamepad and how I think the Turbo 2000 Super joypad ranks:
The wireless joypad works great on my A4000TX, note the joypad receiver with the red LED.
I mainly use two Amiga computers as my primary systems, my A4000TX and my A1200 based on a ReAmiga motherboard, both systems are expanded to the top.
The Turbo 2000 Super is wireless and it works perfectly on my A4000TX without dropping connection. But it fails to work reliably on my A1200. The connection is regularly dropped. I suspect it might be because I have quite a few hardware devices crammed into the buiild. Not sure what the problem is on the Amiga 1200 but this was a huge disapointment and possibly not something related to the Commotron wireless joypad. More about this later.
AAA Battery powered (5/5)
The Turbo 2000 wireless Amiga joypad uses regular AAA batteries.
The Turbo 2000 Super runs from two regular AAA batteries, I run mine on rechargable AAA batteries so can easely swap out fresh batteries if they run out of juice. I prefer regular batteries since you do not have to mess with USB chargers or worrying that the chargable cell runs out or catches fire.
Joypad looks (4/5)
The joypad receiver looks like this, more on the pin header later.
There has been some radical joystick designs for the Amiga during the years, from hand grenades to Simpsons and bugs. This joypad is styled after the NES joypad and I like that shape. I chose the Amiga styled joypad so it has a sticker with the Amiga tick.
This little red LED on the joypad lights up and stays solid when there is a connection with the receiver.
One thing I find irritating is the cheap looking LED that powers on when using the joypad. I would have prefered it to be in a more discrete location or being put behind a plastic window.
The receiver looks quite cheap with a huge gap between the parts and the hole for the pin header cut out by hand.
While the joypad looks fine the receiver looks quite homemade.
It is also a little bit too long, perhaps it has too because of signal reasons. The cutout for the pinout on the side is also sloppily made. Since the receiver is glued together you can not open it up to clean up the cut out for the pinout. That pinout looks weird seeing it externally if not being used for anything.
Finally, there is a old school LED pointing out at the back of the receiver.
two button functionality (5/5)
Button 1 is the regular fire button while the bottom fire button works as “up” on the d-pad
The Commotron Ultra 2000 Super has four main buttons and two function buttons. It is possible to configure buttons for various setups. I would have prefered only 3 or just 2 fire buttons, but I guess 4 is fine. The joypad supports Amiga games that uses more than one fire button.
Must have option for mapping “up” to a button (5/5)
The bottom button is mapped to “up” on the joypad.
Many Amiga games requires you to press up to jump or accelerate. I do not think this worked fine even with a high quality joystick, it always felt like a compromise.
Mapping “up” to a separate fire button makes the game much more enjoyable and is a must have IMHO and the Commotron 2000 does that function fine.
button comfort (3/5)
Buttons are stiff (maybe too stiff) and feel positive.
Buttons on the Commotron 2000 is a bit stiffer than what I am used to. It takes more force to push the button than say a Sega Saturn pad or a genuine SNES/NES pad. I would have prefered a little bit more forgiving button stiffness.
One effect of stiffer buttons is the vibration I can feel for less than half a second after pressing the fire buttons. I press a button and get the feeling like there is something on a spring vibrating inside it. It makes me nuts so I had to open it up and investigate!
I thought it was because there was an antenna inside dangling around, but it was just the spring that holds the AAA battery to the side that was soldered to the PCB of the joypad. It was the batteries that vibrated. It is probably possible to fix this by running a wire from the spring to the PCB instead of soldering it directly to the PCB. I will probably mod it in the future.
Update 260726: I fixed the joypad vibration problem by placing a thin slice of foam between the battery cover and the batteries. No vibration anymore and no need for soldering hacks.
D-pad comfort and Diagonal friendliness (3/5)
The d-pad feels great but I regularly miss hitting diagonals in use.
This is in my opinion one of the most important things a joypad or joystick for 2D games should excel at, however in my opinion the Super 2000 Commotron wireless Amiga joypad was slightly disapointing when it came to diagonals. The buttons and d-pad are already quite stiff, registering diagonals with the d-pad requires even more force used and even then I get the feeling there is no guranteee that the joypad will register diagonally. How disapointing. For example, I did not even reach the city level in Banshee with the Commotron.
In games where diagonals are not that important I find the d-pad has no problems and is actually quite nice to use.
TOTAL ranking: 3/5
Motivation behind score: Buttons are too stiff, d-pad can not reliably register diagonals. Receiver looks cheap. Does not work on my Amiga 1200 reliably (however that might be because of my hardware setup!).
It works fine for games like Nitro and Skidmarks. But it is a real pain to use in games like Dragonstone or Banshee were diagonals are critical and important.
A few comments on the manual and configuration
Manual come in handy for setting up the joypad
Typically I would not comment anything about a manual for a joypad but I am going to do an exception in this case. As you can see you can program the joypad for different functions and the manual is an important reference for this.
For example, it supports autofire and different autofire frequencies. It is also possible to switch around mappings of buttons.
One thing I wonder though is that you can switch between button 2 and 3 being “high active” or “low active”. I have not tried what difference high active makes from low active.
Update 260726: Took the time to ask ChatGPT about the high/low active mystery and got the following answer:
The purpose of these presets is to make Fire 2 and Fire 3 electrically compatible with different retro computer systems. Some systems expect an active-high signal, while others such as the Amiga and Atari ST expect an active-low signal. Selecting the correct preset ensures that the extra fire buttons are detected properly without sending the wrong signal level to the joystick port.
Closeup of the wireless Amiga joypad receiver and the build quality/attention to detail.
Also there is this function on the receiver, there is a pin header here that gets tied to ground if you press button 2-3. I think it is intended to be used in WHDLoad for example, so you can bind it to F10 to quit a game or bind it to reset the Amiga. Or maybe I am misunderstanding the whole thing, can you send two signals with button 2 AND 3 or do you press button 2 and 3 at once to trigger the ground signal. What happens if I connect 12v to the pin header?
Issues with my A1200
So my Amiga 1200 is quite expanded (TF1260/IndivisionMK3/Solas/PicoWyfy/SharkPSU) and there is a lot of stuff between the receiver and the joypad in the A1200, makes me think there might be something messing with the signals or problems with powering the Amiga, though my PSU provides up to 40w. I already tried removing the PicoWyfy and disabling the Solas but it did not help, so no idea what is going on here. Maybe my ReAmiga1200 build has problems, maybe it is the SharkPSU…
Will try it out on my Denise/Alicia and second ReAmiga1200 when I have time and update results here.
Next steps
I will keep the Commotron Super 2000 wireless Amiga joypad for the A4000TX but will stick with the CD32 pad for the Amiga 1200. But I have been thinking about what else to try so here are a glimpse into possible future options.
NES joypad (with genuine Nintendo rubber domes) converted to Amiga. Would be more finger friendly, supports mapping “up” button to second fire button but wont be wireless.
Genuine Sega Saturn joypad converted to USB and made working on the Amiga with a MouSTer. The best d-pad ever. Too many buttons but could be made CD32 compatible with the MouSTer. Hopefully can map the “up” button to a fire button. Still not wireless.
I finally got my hands on the PowerShark Power Adapter for the Amiga 500/600/1200. There are many PSU options for wedge Amigas these days but the PowerShark power adapter in combination with a USB-C PSU for the Amiga was a nobrainer for me to choose because of two reasons: It is USB-C and it has a power switch close to the Amiga 1200.
USB-C Amiga PSU
I highly suspect USB-C will become even more widespread in the future for retro gear, not just for Amiga computers. I suspect most vintage hardware will be able to be modded or will be able to made run on USB-C with some hardware device – meaning, one main PSU could drive many devices instead of having multiple aging PSUs.
The power switch situation
Having a power switch close to the Amiga is a luxury. No need to reach for the switch on the floor anymore.
Lets take a closer look at the PowerShark Power Adapter for Amiga
Top of the PowerShark Power Adapter, notice the USB-C socket in the mouth of the shark
The PowerShark power adapter is a neat little piece of hardware that inserts into the power socket on the Amiga 500, 600 or 1200. It has a LED that lights up in either red or green, red if the PSU driving it fails or green if everything works. The plastic shell is quite nice and looks professional.
Back of the PowerShark Amiga USB-C Power Adapter
The backside of the PowerShark power adapter for the Amiga has a small on/off switch and the USB-C socket for powering it from the USB-C PSU.
Sideview of the PowerShark Amiga PSU USB-C Power Adapter
The side view shows its small size. The size of the PowerShark is 25 x 27 x 58mm.
How to power the PowerShark Power Adapter for the Amiga?
A regular USB-C phone charger PSU and an old Apple USB-C Macbook charging cable
The PowerShark has to be fed power from a USB-C PSU. As you may know Amiga runs on different voltages so PowerShark Power Adapter has to be fed 12v. The 12v then gets converted into the different voltages the Amiga needs to run in the PowerShark. That means the USB-C PSU has to provide 12v or else it wont work.
Besides providing 12v the PSU has to provide enough amps or else there wont be enough power to power up the A1200 (a 5w phone USB-C charger wont run an A1200).
I tried with my laptop charger and it did not work because it did not provide 12v. But another USB-C laptop charger I had worked fine since it could provide 12v. If in doubt, it is usually specified on the charger if the USB-C PSU outputs 12v.
I also tried with a low end Apple charger (5-7w IIRC) and that did not work either as expected, the PowerShark just got a red LED.
For testing purposes I fell back on this 20w USB-C phone charger i found at home pictured above. I will for sure upgrade to a more beefy USB-C PSU later but for now this will do fine.
There are some details on the homepage about the USB-C cable that you should use. I just took the safe route here and used an old Apple USB-C cable that powered an old Apple laptop i had years ago.
A nice cheap alternative is to get the RaspberryPi 5 27w USB-C PSU. But that one seems not to be available in black.
PowerShark USB-C Power Adapter on my Amiga 1200
As my main Amiga 1200 is black I wanted a black PowerShark and I think it goes well together with it. It sticks out a bit at the back but it is not that bad I think.
PowerShark USB-C Power Adapter on my Amiga 1200 powered on and running fine
The Amiga 1200 I used for testing consists of the following hardware and is my main A1200 (and the Amiga that gets the most use by me except the A4000TX):
ReAmiga1200 1.5
TerribleFire 1260 128MB/060@100Mhz
Indivision MK3
Solas + one LED strip
MicroniK floppy drive
4GB Compact Flash
PicoWyfy
MouSTer + USB adapter for mouse
How much power does an Amiga 1200 use
Running a fractal generator stresses the 68060 CPU a lot
I wanted to test the stability of the PowerShark and came up with a mini test. I got an idea to run a few programs that pushes the Amiga 1200 hard. I ran both Quake and Quake 2 for a few minutes and also ran a fractal generator on my A1200 with 68060. Everything worked fine – keep in mind this was not a 24h test, but more a half hour test.
Power meter measuring the watt usage of my A1200 powered by PowerShark
I got this power meter years ago and it is quite fun measuring devices. While pushing the A1200 above hard the watt meter tops out at 23w. During idle it sits between 18-20w and during regular use around 21w.
My USB-C PSU is rated at 20w so I wont run this setup permanently as that cant be too good pushing it too hard but its interesting that stability was not an issue.
My Amiga 1200 computers, one basic one not so basic in setup
But that got me into thinking, how much power would a regular Amiga 1200 draw. I have a backup A1200 that is completely stock (except its also a ReAmiga 1.5).
This A1200 has: A CF adapter without CF card and a 3.5″ floppy drive, other than that, its completely basic.
Power meter measuring the watt usage of my basic A1200 powered by PowerShark
And here it is powered by the PowerShark Power Adapter and is hovering between 9 to 11 watts.
Final thoughts
I have no regrets, this is a great addition to my Amiga 1200.
You could say it is an expensive solution since the PowerShark costs 80 euros and you need to get a USB-C PSU (and USB-C cable if PSU does not have one) so that adds to the price.
You could also say it is a complex device because you need to have a specific 12v USB-C PSU that can provide sufficient amps. There are many great options for USB-C PSUs mentioned on the website and for the average Amiga user I highly suspect this is not a real problem.
It is what it is but I think that you pay a little bit premium to have a modern solution and that is something I happily will do. I would happily pick up another one if I was knee deep in wedge Amigas only!
I have been following this project with some interest from time to time but never pulled the trigger to get the relevant hardware to get a setup going.
Partly it was because I was swamped with Amiga hardware projects, partly because PPC on 68k Amigas was not really that relevant anymore – unlike yesterday when it was the next logical step for the Amiga to evolve to. Secondly, I could not wrap my head around how to set it up or where to find an affordable card.
But times change and I reconsidered that last opinion about it not being relevant when I skimmed through the supported applications a year or so ago.
Emerson-Motorola PrPMC8005E-1259 PPC card
One supported PPC card by the initative to get PPC working on PCI Amigas is the Emerson-Motorola PrPMC8005E-1259 that I was lucky to be able to pick up for a very reasonable sum on Ebay. All I needed now was a weekend to get the this insane setup going.
The PrPMC8005E-1259 contains a 450 MHz MPC7410 G4 PPC CPU and 128 MB memory. It is a PMC card and fits a PCI card that acts as a PMC carrier on the Amiga.
Originally this CPU card is not meant to be used on an Amigas at all, I think the main use is in industrial applications and in telecommunication, but exactly how and why – No idea!
Before I continue, lets look at some previous Amiga PPC setups I toyed around with a few years ago.
Previous Amiga PPC setups, time flies…
Phase 5 CyberStormPPC 233Mhz PPC / 50Mhz 68060
The card above was the top of the line turbo board from Phase 5 that I got when I purchased an Amiga 4000D second hand in 2007. The card had a 233Mhz PPC chip and a 68060 68k CPU. I had a CVPPC graphics card for it and was also running a fast SCSI HDD that sounded like a jet once spun up. It was a fast setup but was highly complex in setting up. It was also noisy and hot running. I remember I spent a few days trying to get it going before being successful. I think I paid 400 euros for the complete system.
Phase 5 BlizzardPPC 200Mhz PPC / 25Mhz 68040
Here is another Phase 5 turbo card, it is the Phase 5 BlizzardPPC, I remember that it had a 68040 68k CPU and a PPC clocked at 200Mhz (I think). I have forgotten where I got this card from, I guess it was in a bundle, possibly with an Amiga 1200 tower, I had the BlizzardVision graphics card for it too.
Amiga 4000D PPC setup from 2007 or so… those where the days – please note floppy cablegami
Here is my Amiga 4000D setup from 2007 with the CyberStormPPC installed. Not much has changed with today really, just the shape of the hardware and the amount of machines.
I got AmigaOS4 for classic PPC system and installed that on the computer above. Then I played around with some software in 68k Workbench, but no matter how I twisted and turned things I felt like I had expensive hardware that I used too little and just heated up the Amiga 4000 too much – So I sold it all!
…and now I am back (never sell stuff).
PMC PPC PCI carrier board
PMC PCI carrier card for PPC module
So to use the PMC PPC card above on the Amiga you have to add it to a PMC carrier that slots into a PCI slot. This version of the PMC carrier was made by a friend in the hobby that I met on a Discord channel we frequently visit. It has a small 5v 40 mm fan to cool the PPC card that sits under it.
PPC card fits over the PMC carrier card perfectly
The Emerson-Motorola PrPMC8005E-1259 PPC PMC card is mounted to the PMC carrier board. As you see it is a perfect fit. The 3D printed bracket has holes for ventilation.
PMC carrier and PPC card sandwiched together
As you can see, the card is really slim even though its a sandwich. The CPU on the PPC card sits under the heatsink on the left side.
My Amiga 4000D has a Firebird PCI daughter board installed. The PPC card is inserted in the top PCI slot. The card under the PPC card is a normal PC 3DFX Voodoo 3 card, without it the PPC card wont work.
The Voodoo 3 graphics card is the AGP version, that is why the bracket is not flush with the case as there is an adaptor that converts AGP to PCI and takes up some space. Bottom slot contains a Multifix-AGA scandoubler.
My original plan was to use a 3DFX Voodoo 4 card but my Voodoo 4 failed to work in my setup in combination with the PPC card for some reason. Thus so I chosed a Voodoo 3 instead that is better supported on the Amiga.
A4000D test setup as seen from the top
Here is the setup from the top. Even with active cooling this is a really hot running setup, no joke. The 3DFX Voodoo 3 graphics card gets very hot. I wont be running long sessions with the lid on (if at all) and will possibly move the PPC/3DFX setup to a tower setup in the future to enable better cooling if possible.
To run the A4000D/PPC/Voodoo 3 setup reliably with the case closed would take some extreme cooling mods and cooling improvements to the A4000D case. Not sure how to or if I want to chop up this 350 euro replica case to enable more fans, but clearly something has to be improved if this is the way forward.
Problems with running PPC based Warp 3D software
Firebird PCI Amiga daughterboard Molex power connector
As is de-rigeur when dealing with Amiga hardware something has to be weird and strange, unexplainable or simply illogical or based on an error or fault that can not be guessed by mere mortals (or it might be me who f”d up when building something in this Amiga).
In this case everything worked fine, including PPC programs, except Warp3D enabled PPC programs that crashed the system – All the time.
68k Warp3D applications worked fine. Non Warp3D PPC applications also ran fine. It was just PPC Warp3D applications that failed to run.
Can you guess how I fixed it? -By not running power to the Molex connector on the Firebird.
With the Molex connected, crashes.
With no Molex connected to Firebird, could run PPC GLQuake all day happily. Why? -No idea.
Some demo PPC software on the Amiga
PPC was thought of as the next generation CPU for the Amiga. It was logical because both PPC and 68k was made by Motorola and 68k was not developed anymore. Motorola was not Intel which was considered Wintel and was lame and dumb.
It was a different time back then and it was much more fanatical, had they chosed ARM or Intel for the Amiga in the middle of the 90ies then probably half the user base would have left the Amiga community in disgust. Even if it could have been better.
In hindsight PPC was maybe not the right choice, but who knew it back then. What everyone wanted was Workbench to be fully ported to PPC.
AmigaOS4 installed on an A4000D with a CyberStormPPC
That eventually happened with AmigaOS4 around 2006 for owners of a Phase 5 PPC accelerators. Using AmigaOS4 classic was nice but limited as it only supported system friendly software, understandable as it is just like AmigaOS4 for next gen hardware.
Thus for most PPC owners, they still run Workbench on 68k CPU while the PPC CPU is just sort of a co-processor that runs PPC applications launched from the 68k Workbench when needed.
But that does not mean there are no interesting PPC software to run. You wont see them here today though as I was just trying my PPC card out with some standard software such as:
Warp3D Gears demo
Gears PPC Warp3D demo application
This is just a demo to check that Warp3D and PPC is working. Imagine the gear spinning around very smoothly. There is a 68k executable too, that is great stuff if one want to compare performance between PPC and 060.
WarpUp Voxelspace
Voxelspace PPC demo application
This is another PPC demo, the Voxelspace demo where you can travel around a voxel landscape. Hit F1 to render the voxel landscape with 060 or PPC and see the impressive speed up with it running on the PPC CPU.
PPC GLQuake
GLQuake running on PPC, really fast!
Off course, the raison d’ĂȘtre for having hi-end Amiga systems – trying out Quake on it for 15 seconds and then doing something else.
N2630 is a great 68030 CPU card you can build yourself for the Amiga 2000 or A2000EATX project. You can find more information about the N2630 project on the website here.
N2630 CPU card with 3D-printed bracket (that has a part broken off)
There is a model for a bracket for the N2630 that you can 3D print. I did that but it was too flimsy and eventually broke in two pieces.
I was planning on ordering a 3D metal print of the bracket from JLC but heard of arymanx on Amibay who had made a small batch of metal brackets for the CPU card. In this hobby, you have to act fast, or the chance might never come up again so in less than a week a shiny metal N2630 Amiga 030 CPU card bracket arrived to me from UK.
If you are interested in a metal bracket for the N2630 too, feel free to contact arymanx directly about it on AmiBay.
Another view of the N2630 metal bracket.
Its just a bracket, but is a great reminder of that it is the small details that makes a DIY build great.
Metal bracket mounted on to the N2630, my A2000EATX is in the background.
I mounted the bracket to the N2630 with two screws and nuts. The nuts got a drop of blue Loctite to hold them secure. Fitment was excellent.
Back of my A2000EATX. One slot left for a NIC.
Not only does it hold the card better in the case it also looks better.
Pay no attention to the nut wedged between bracket and case. The CPU slot I used when building my A2000EATX motherboard was taller than a regular CPU slot used on the Amiga 2000 making the CPU card sit further out from the motherboard.
Amiga 4000D setup for PCI card installation and test run
Here is my Amiga 4000D with PCI slots. It has an Firebird daughterboard that has PCI slots, Zorro slots and one video slot. More information about the Firebird PCI boards here.
Firebird PCI daughter board for Amiga 4000D
This is an older picture of my Firebird PCI daughterboard with no cards mounted to it to get a better look at it. This was before it was fully built, that is why it only has one PCI slot.
I tried PCI on the Amiga years ago on my A1200 with a Mediator A1200LT – I was not sold on the concept as I felt the performance was lacking. Since then I wanted to give PCI on the Amiga a fair chance again and so I had to get the Firebird to try out PCI on a big box Amiga properly!
3DFX Voodoo4 PCI
Here is a 3DFX Voodoo 4 PCI graphics cad I got years ago, back when they sold for a reasonable sum. It has spent close to 15 years in storage. Along the way it got a capacitor knocked off (that I am pointing on). I replaced the capacitor, added a heatsink and fan to it and hoped that it would still work.
Amiga 4000D with PCI cards, Zorro cards and a video slot card
Here is a closeup of the Amiga 4000D with the Firebird PCI board holding the Voodoo4 PCI card and a PMC carrier holding a PPC card. I will make a separate post about the PPC card in the top slot in the future. The other cards you see is a purple Multifix-AGA, GottaGoFaZt3r and a CPLDICY.
Testing Voodoo 4 PCI RTG output in Workbench with HippoPlayer
…aaaaand surprise, the 3DFX Voodoo4 PCI graphics card worked!! Installation went really smooth even if it was not a simple point and click installation.
Looking at the cards listed on the PCI bus
There is only so much time on the weekend so I ran out of time installing the PPC card, hopefully I will look into it next time. I will also need to set up an automatic switcher between RTG and scandoubled output. As usual, you are never done in this hobby….
Apocalypse PrPMC8005E-1259 450 MHz PPC card waiting for its PCI carrier to make it work on a PCI Amiga Z3 system.
Don’t know why or how, but somehow I am back on the classic 68k PPC hype train! Enjoy watching me rip my hair off my head trying to get this PPC board going in my A4000 in the future!
Find the missing chip on the ZZ9000AX Amiga sound card
I wrote about the troubles I had with the ZZ9000AX soundcard for the ZZ9000 graphics board in a post a year ago. No matter what I tried I got a horrible distorted sound from Paula if Paula output was routed through the ZZ9000AX. That was just half the story, the other half was the insane bus noise the card picked up. I was not alone with this problem as I heard quite a few who had the same disappointed stories to tell about their ZZ9000AX Amiga sound cards. One chap I know called the card “an utterly terrible piece of sh*t hardware“.
An intense discussion with the creator of this card followed where it was concluded that the problem could not be confirmed, a pointer to the schematics of the card was offered – An electronics enginering degree was however not offered. Maybe then I could have found the error myself.
Patience rewards those who wait, that is something every Amiga user knows about, it is just a matter of time before Amiga will take over the computers of the world and become the no.1 computer again.. oh wait its not 1998 anymore back to the ZZ9000AX and 2025…
Good bye…
So I was hanging out in a Discord and noticed rumors about the ZZ9000AX now performing fine by doing a simple hardware modification to it. Apparently, removing the chip U4 from the ZZ9000AX would fix the insane sh*t quality (mildly speaking) output from the card. After further investigations it was brought up that this groundbreaking news was communicated on an IRC channel (yes, it is 2025) for the Amiga community to pick up on (why not post it on usegroups next time?).
I could barely keep my hand off my soldering iron – In 5 minutes the chip was removed from my ZZ9000AX never to be seen again. If the card failed in the process I could always retire it in the round archive (meaning, in the garbage where I had been tempted to put the card to rest for more than a year).
Would it work or not!?!?!
In the middle of a brutal 90 min Amiga module testing session with my A4000TX running ZZ9000/ZZ9000AX
IT WORKS!!!!!!! The distortion and heavy background noise is gone.
But I can still hear some bus noise in the background when opening drawers, in comparison with how it was before, this is something I can live with.