Amiga 2000 EATX

Posted on April 27, 2025 by erkorh

I just finished the last touches on my Amiga 2000 EATX build. The Amiga 2000 EATX is a clone of the Amiga 2000 motherboard in an extended ATX format. That means it will fit inside most ATX tower cases that can swallow a larger EATX format (or in this case can be hacked to accept EATX motherboards). You can read more about the A2000 EATX here.

I like to modernise the Amiga systems I have so I look forward installing an Amiga in a generic PC tower, with that said, I actually think the original Commodore Amiga 2000 case was awesome. It was an easy case to open up to have access to the slots, it was also a good looking case and the de facto professional Amiga to have back in the day.

I like to think that the A2000 EATX continues that professional legacy of the Amiga 2000 by modernising it and making it more accessible and user friendly.

Building an Amiga 2000 EATX motherboard

My Amiga 2000 EATX in about 85% built state.

As you can see on the picture, most of the features of a genuine Commodore Amiga 2000 is present on the A2000 EATX motherboard.

Although the motherboard above is in a half finished state above we can see there are space for five Zorro 2 slots, three ISA slots (one less than on a real A2000), the CPU slot and the video slot. Also note the ATX power and space for all custom chips from an Amiga.

I used the chipset from an Amiga 500 and then got a Bluster chip (Buster clone). I also took the vidiot from a broken A500. It is possible to run both 8375 and 8372. I did not have an 8375 so I used an 8372 instead. Having the option to chose between 8375 and 8372 is awesome – 8375 is more difficult to find and more expensive. There is also provision for a PCB to generate the tick signal. I do not have that on this build but if needed could be added.

The most difficult part to solder on this project is the chip memory which is very fine pitched (if unexperienced). There are also two diodes (IIRC) that have tiny solder pads, other than that it is very straight forward.

Here is the backside of the motherboard.

I also want to shine a light onto the documentation around this project. The amount of documentation on the project website is extensive and very well done. There is also a Discord where one can ask questions if one gets stuck.

Chosing a case for the A2000 EATX motherboard

The specific chassi I am using for this project is called the IT-2812 Business by Inter-Tech. Here is a link to the exact chassi. I did extensive research before ordering it so I was sure the extended ATX motherboard would be able to fit inside it. I was prepared to mod the case to get it to fit which I eventually had to do.

You can make out where I had to cut the case to make the motherboard (and CPU/Zorro cards) fit the case

While it looks great and fits the motherboard, after some extensive case cutting, I do not recommend this case at all since it is made of very thin sheet metal. While thin sheet metal is great for modding, it also makes for a seriously flimsy case (I bet its more flimsy than a MicroniK plastic A1200 tower).

Modding the case involved cutting off sections from the front of the chassis. While these modifications was simple, it was difficult to do it without access to power tools. So it does not have that professional look.

But as a proof of concept, it is possible to fit an EATX motherboard inside a regular ATX case (this case was not meant to be used for EATX boards). Although I have to be careful when inserting Zorro cards since there is no support for the front most part of the case, there is nothing to screw it down into. I will probably find a sturdier case in the future.

What kind of hardware to put into the Amiga 2000 clone?

What use is a bunch of Zorro slots if there are no hardware attached to them. Amiga 2000, no matter if it is a clone or the real deal , is a workstation so it has to have some muscles packed into it. Here is what is plugged into them and the other slots at the moment.

n2630 CPU card

The author of the Amiga 2000 EATX motherboard has designed a turbo card for the A2000 also, it is the n2630 and is a 030 50 Mhz based turbo card with IDE and a CF slot on board. You can also fit an FPU and various amounts of fast mem. I think this card is a nice compliment to the A2000 EATX and it was a no brainer to go with this card. I just wish I went for 256 MB fast memory instead of 128. Maybe next time…

I do wish there would be a DIY 060 card for the Amiga 2000 CPU slot. 030 is fine, but a fast 040 or 060 is better once you have gotten used to it (if you wish to stay in real 68k land).

Prelude replica sound card

Prelude replica Zorro 2 16-bit sound card with Mpegit module attached to it

I had an extra Prelude replica that I had built so that card went into this build. It has the MpegIt addon added to it making it possible to play MP3s fine on a lowly 030 Amiga.

A500-Graka graphics card

There is a Matze graphics card running in the computer. I think this is a nice card to run in a Zorro 2 based Amiga.

Multivision 2000 scandoubler

And then for scandoubling duties I have an old classic piece of hi-end Amiga hardware, the 3-state MultiVision 2000 scandoubler for the A2000. It is running great in the A2000 EATX and produces a nice image on my TFT.

Other bits

I have a Zorro-LAN-IDE card that will go into this case once I have a bracket made for it. There is also a 80 mm Noctua fan at the back that is mated with an old Zalman fan mate I had in my stash to quiten it down.

Finishing touches, the ATX backplate

I found the file to print the ATX backplate on a1k.org. So I sent it to JLC to get it printed.

And here it is installed. Instantly makes the Amiga 2000 EATX looks better from the backside.

Conclusion

I am very happy with the Amiga 2000 EATX. It was a great experience to build it and I have had a lot of fun seting up the whole system. I also thoroughly enjoy using it!

This is not my main Amiga but I use it a lot during testing of Zorro cards. It has proved to be very reliable and a great addition to my stable of Amigas. I would not mind running it as a daily driver if it had a faster CPU.

ReAmiga 3000 motherboard is fully built and tested

Posted on April 15, 2025 by erkorh

I had an old Amiga 3000 in my stash that I got in a trade years ago. It was traded to me as fully working but never worked no matter what I did. When the ReAmiga 3000 project became known I wanted to save the broken A3000 by building up a ReAmiga 3000 motherboard with the parts from the broken Amiga 3000.

I did not have the soldering skills 15 years ago to do that, but today is a different time (and maybe I was better off 15 years ago with just one A1200 instead of a fleet of Amiga replicas today lol) – So the broken Amiga 3000, or at least what was left of it has gotten a new lease on its life!

Find out more about the ReAmiga project here.

I have already started soldering in stuff that I should have waited with, as usual it is difficult to wait for the right parts to arrive at the post office before starting the project properly.

So this is how it started out. This time I started off with a motherboard with all passives already mounted which saved a ton of time. Interestingly though, I found one error where the BOM specified a tantal capacitor, a regular ceramic cap was placed instead. It was an easy fix once I found a suitable component to replace it with!

Here is the original Amiga 3000 motherboard which acted as a donor card

The components I used from my broken Amiga 3000 was all the custom chips (more on that later), the special memory chips for the scandoubler and some odd pieces here and there such as the trim pot, power socket, disable switch for the scandoubler and the stacked female 25 pin port.

Most of this stuff can actually be found new. But I usually like to keep some parts from donor Amigas in new builds not just the custom chips for some weird reason.

Believe it or not, I actually used the same KEL connector for the CPU board that was soldered to the broken A3000. It was a painful experience desoldering it as it is soldered with 200 pins to the motherboard.

I also wanted to save the two edge card connectors for the daughterboard, desoldering them was a major hassle since the ground plane is very strong on the A3000. Instead I ordered replacements from AliExpress because they where extremely difficult to desolder.

Chipset gave me a surprise

As is de rigeur when building an Amiga replica, there are always some kind of surprises no matter how much prepping one does.

There are some very expensive chips on the Amiga 3000. First is the Amber chip which is part of the scandoubler/flickerfixer area of the A3000. Then there is the DMAC chip, both chips costs a ton of money to source if replacements are needed.

I did not know if these chips where working before starting the build and I was not prepared to pay 250-450+ euros for replacements if they did not work. Luckily, once I had the board fully built, I can now confirm they are working just fine!

But surprised I was, the Ramsey chip was broken. My ReAmiga 3000 would not start with my original Ramsey chip installed. Luckily I had a NOS Ramsey 07 chip in my stash that worked fine as a replacement.

And as lucky as I was, the same day, I noticed that a Buster 11 was offered for sale on a local website meaning I could skip the Buster 7 I had from the broken A3000. As it was offered on a local trading website I got it muuuch cheaper than from Ebay.

But…. I know what you are thinking, Super DMAC 02 and Ramsey 07, that is a recipe for trouble.

Lets find out if Ramsey 07 plays well with my revision 02 of the Super DMAC. I will just have to find out once system is fully up and running with Workbench installed. Then I will be able to do some stress testing. If problems occur, I will need to track down a Super DMAC replica.

Next steps….

Now all I am waiting for is a replica A3000D case to be available and I will order one in black ASAP. I am also doing a daughter board for it which I will post about later in the year here.

Solas RGB LED controller board for Amiga

Posted on March 6, 2025 by erkorh

Solas installed in my ReAmiga 1200, it is the blue board to the left of the floppy drive

I have recently been playing around with the highly sought after Solas. The Solas is an RGB LED controller for the Amiga, it also has some other interesting functions. Solas connects to the Amiga on the clock port and can control two LED strips. Solas has also the ability to control fan speed and measure temps. It is also a clock port multiplier!

While I am not very interested in RGB lightning in computers typically the difference here is that the RGB lights can react to the sound the Amiga is putting out. When playing a module you can see the LED strip jumping to the beat of the music. How nice!

I enjoy playing modules on the Amiga and all kind of graphical visualizers for module players are all kinds of awesome. The more the better – I have been thinking of hooking up external VU meters for many years but to have them integrated into the Amiga is much better!

Before we contionue – If you are interested in the Solas board I highly suggest visiting the official Amiga Solas website and ordering one now! These days, good things come in small batches in the world of Amiga and if you dont hop on the train before it has left the station, sometimes it never comes back.

Building the Solas LED controller

I like building hardware myself so I asked if I could get the Solas as a kit, which I could. I also got a second Solas already built, it is a long story why and I wont write it down here to bore anyone. Lets just say, resistors can go bad sometimes and sometimes it can be good to have an oscilloscope in your toolbox (I dont have one).

Here is the Solas in kit form. A nice mix of through hole parts and surface mount components. Also note all the cables for the temp sensors and power cable.

Front side of Solas Amiga RGB LED controller PCB

The square space if for the chip that needs to be programmed. You can also see all through holes for pin headers and clock ports. The manual comes in really handy here in understanding how everything is tied together.

Programing the PIC microchip on the Solas

I thought I could program the Solas with my RPI. I have successfully managed to program many projects that uses Xilinx CPLDs with the RPI but was not successful in this case. So I got a cheap Pickit programmer. It is not visible in the image above though but worked fine – setting up the Pickit programmer with the correct software and settings was a nightmare though.

So here is the little PCB finally fully built and installed in the A1200. As it connects to the clock port it is very important that it is fitted correctly on the bottom pins. If you use a cable and mount it wrong way, expect card to break. Why would you mount it on a cable? Say you have an Amiga 1200 tower, it might be better to mount it on a cable so that a Zorro 2 or Mediator backplane can be fitted in the tower. Mounting Solas on a cable is also relevant if you have a clock port in a big box Amiga through a Zorro card.

Next steps, connecting all the cables to Solas and Amiga 1200

Installing and adding cables to Solas in an Amiga 1200

The manual is very good at explaining how you hook up all the cables, it is slightly confusing doing this without consulting the manual trying to figure it out yourself so in this case the manual is a must read (lol). In the image above, there is a small PCB that sits under the upper Kickstart chip and hooks up to the Solas with two wires. That is for activating the other clock ports on the Solas (IIRC).

How to connect sound output into Solas on a ReAmiga 1200?

Pin header for mono sound input to the Solas on the ReAmiga 1200 v1.5

Since I was using a ReAmiga 1200 and not a Commodore made Amiga 1200 there is one difference that needs to be taken care of. On a genuine Commodore Amiga 1200, you can pick up mono sound from the modulator. But the ReAmiga 1200 does not have a RF modulator and is missing the mono output there. On later ReAmiga 1200 (I have v 1.5) there is space for a pin header close to the keyboard MPU chip where you can pick up mono sound (see image above where I have soldered on one pin header to the motherboard). Also note the place above and to the right of the pin header where you have to add a 10uf ceramic capacitor. I have not added the capacitor on the picture above.

To get the Solas to react to sound input I also had to place a 10k resistor inline with the cable connected to the pin header and to the Solas board. After that, everything worked fine!

So here you can the full setup. Unfortunately it looks a bit messy with the Indivision, CF adapter and all the cables all over the place. It is possible to clean it up a bit, but for testing purposes this was fine. You can also see where I placed the RGB LED strip. I ended up super gluing the LED strip to the case because the sticky backside was not sticky enough. I routed the cable from the Indivision MK3 under the Solas board, made it look much cleaner and works fine.

RGB LED strip is mounted to the underside of the upper Amiga 1200 case

Closeup of where the RGB LED strip is mounted. Even though it is mounted upside down in a solid black case it works fine and you can clearly see the light the LEDs are emitting when they are lit.

SolasControl – Software to control Solas

Use SolasControl to configure the Solas board in the Amiga

Solas comes with a great MUI based program that lets you configure Solas. The way this works is that you configure Solas, then you save your settings to the Flash on the Solas. That means that Solas will work with software that fully takes control of the Amiga.

SolasControl is an easy to use program, in the image above I have configured Solas to show a solid green light when the Amiga 1200 is idle. It looks like this:

Solas configured to show a solid green color when the A1200 is idle

Solas styles and events

As you can see on the image of SolasControl, you can set the level of brightness for the LED and in the highest strength the LEDs are very bright. I usually do not run the LEDs at the highest brightness.

Styles you can chose from in SolasControl

A static color is a bit boring. There are many styles you can chose from, my favorite is a rainbow scroll with a low brightness setting when idle. See the video below to see an example of it where I chosed blue and red as colors for the scroll.

Speed, colors, brightness and size depending on style chosed can be configured to ones preferences.

There are in total five types you can set the Solas to react to, Idle, Floppy access, HDD access, PCMCIA access and Audio. Idle just means when Solas is idle (when the other types are not active). Audio is when there is audio output and floppy/HDD and PCMCIA is when there are activity on these devices.

I like to run Star Trek Viewer for HDD Access, its a nice effect when accessing the HDD. I also as said before run Rainbow Scroll with a low brightness setting when idle. And finally, the pièce de résistance, audio. I like Level Meter (VU) for audio!

RGB LEDs reacting to Amiga sound

Playing a module in HippoPlayer on the A1200 and watching the RGB LEDs react to sound

I want to point out that I usually run a little more fancy Workbench (even on this non GFX board AGA only Amiga 1200 WB 3.1), but in this case I toned it down a lot to clarify images.

In the image above I play a module in HippoPlayer, I have also configured Solas to show Level Meter when sound is playing. And I think it looks fabulous!

This is actually why I think the Solas is so exciting since I wanted a hardware device like this for the Amiga for a long time. I remember looking for similar types of hardware on AliExpress more than 15 years ago that could be added to a 5.25 bracket back when I had an Amiga 1200 tower. But this is so much better since it can be configured on the Amiga!

What about controlling fans and measuring temps with the Solas?

Solas comes with two sensors you can place where you want to. I placed one on my Indivision (as it runs very hot) and the other on Alice as it also runs hot. It is possible to add a cable between TerribleFire 1260 and Solas to measure 060 temps, but I have not had time to do that yet, but thats on the todo list.

The fan control function is very interesting particularly if using the Solas in a big box Amiga with many Zorro cards and hot CPUs. I think this is a nice alternative to CPLDIcy.

Usefulness of more than one clock port?

There are exciting developments in the Amiga hardware world where some users have created clock port based WIFI cards for the Amiga. There are sound cards for the clock port and USB cards. So having more than one clock port can actually be usefull – who knows what type of hardware will be released for it in the future. Having a couple extra feels great for the future.

Solas and big box Amiga computers

It is possible to add a clock port to a big box Amiga with Zorro slots through an old Buddha card, ZORRO-IDE-LAN-CP card and many other cards. That makes it possible to run Solas in an A2000, A3000 or A4000.

There is also this exciting ISA card that functions as a carrier for the Solas. As you probably already know, ISA slots in an Amiga are totally passive, meant to be used for PC bridgeboards or TBC cards. so the Solas ISA carrier only provides power to the Solas. It has some useful pin headers though.

Mounting the Solas to the ISA carrier board needs a slightly modified Solas card. One also needs to figure out how to connect sound to the Solas. I figured out that I can take it from pin headers on the ZZ9000 graphics card I am running in my Amiga 4000TX.

How I got sound input into the Solas from the ZZ9000

So here is how I hooked up sound input from the ZZ9000 graphics card to the Solas. Unfortunately the picture is a bit grainy but you get the point, L/R goes into the Solas ISA carrier. Also, it is a temporary cable as only two wires are needed.

Here is how the Solas is connected to the clock port of the Zorro-LAN-IDE card

And here is how the Solas is connected to the clock port on the Zorro-LAN-IDE card.

Keep in mind though if you have maxed out your Amiga expansion slots (we are all Amiga snobs left in this hobby right?) this sandwich of the carrier card and the Solas can be difficult to fit as it takes up more height than a regular card – And even more height with the cables connected to it!

I should also show you the LED setup I am running, I am running two LED strips on the inner sides of the front of the case. It looks awesome when playing tunes.

Final thoughs

As you can probably tell, I have only positive things to say about Solas. Highly recommended! I also think the Solas board is one of the greatest hardware developments for the Amiga in recent years (together with PiStorm and open hardware such as BFG and TF series of cards). Great work everybody involved with it 👍

68060 rev. 6 71E41J tested and successfully overclocked to 100MHz in my Amiga 1200

Posted on February 24, 2025 by erkorh

I bought a 68060 revision 6 (71E41J) recently for a very good price. The rev. 6 CPU can usually do a really good overclock, often reaching 100MHz or more, which makes them very sought after and sometimes fakes are offered as the genuine version of the CPU. As I was already running an 060 in my Amiga 1200 I was not sure if it was worth swapping CPUs to gain more megaherts. The rev. 5 68060 I was running could do a 66MHz overclock but ran very hot. And a 50MHz 060 is not a slow CPU (in the world of Amiga).

Swapping 68060 CPUs in my Amiga 1200

I decided to swap CPUs because I wanted to test performance of an Amiga without a graphics card but with a fast CPU and high resolutions (like HighGFX and highres laced). Luckily removing the CPU was not a difficult task, prying on the corners of the socket it was out in less than 5 minutes ready to go into another one of my systems. Once the rev. 6 CPU was inserted into the Terrible Fire 1260 I was eager to do a test. Sure enough, it did not complain anything running at 100MHz!! (keep in mind I had a heatsink on the CPU when doing tests). Next time I will try 106MHz!!

Is there actually a noticeable difference between a 50 and a 100 MHz 68060?

Would I be able to detect any difference between a 50MHz 060 and a 100MHz 060 or would it only be noticeable in a benchmark program?

I was not too sure – When I had overclocked my 060 in my Amiga 4000TX from 50 to 100MHz I could feel that icons loaded faster, drawers just popped up, Workbench was just smoother and more responsive. But I was not sure if it was my imagination or reality.

With that said, I was surprised that my 100% non scientific mean of measuring the difference between a 50 and a 100MHz CPU in the following AGA Amiga Workbench screenmodes highres, highres laced, HighGFX @ 1024×768 (all screen modes in 64 colors) proved that there really was a difference!

Workbench had become even faster and more responsive. Running 3.1 with the stock Commodore 4 color icons, icons did not load anymore, they just popped up, almost all at once, drawers opened up instantly. The system speed by at such a high rate I had only witnessed something like this in WinUAE. What an amazing experience!

I changed background colors to 256 colors and could sense little to no slowdown from a 64 color screenmode. Sure, I have to test this more, but the early results are great, this is what base level Amiga should be like! Lets bring on 200MHz 060 (lets crowd fund it lol).

Cooling problems

Before I permanently run this computer at 100MHz I have to figure out a good cooling solution for the CPU. This rev.6 68060 runs cooler than the old rev. 5 I had in it before. But overclocking it makes it run slightly hotter. I suspect its above 50 degrees but not more than 60. I have some ideas on how to cool it down but will have to sleep on the ideas a little more before I pull the trigger on the stuff I need to build one..

Terrible Fire TF1260 CPLD cooling

Posted on February 23, 2025 by erkorh

I have a Terrible Fire TF1260 in my Amiga 1200. I used to have an Apollo 1240 upgraded to 060 in it and was very happy with that card (despise what other said about the card, it was very stable for me). Time marches on though and the TF1260 started to look more and more impressive, so I built one last year. The TF1260 supports overclocking by software. One comment I read was that the chances of a good overclock improved if you put heatsinks on the two CPLD chips.

Keep in mind that I had a heatsink on the 060 when doing overclocking tests. But the space between the 060 and keyboard is so tight it was very difficult finding a heatsink in my stash that would fit with the keyboard installed. I have actually not solved this yet, thus I just focused on the CPLDs and will try to solve the 060 heatsink some other day, until then it will run at 50Mhz.

The problem with the CPLD cooler is that the right CPLD need a short heatsink if you want to run a compact flash adapter over it. As you can get an impressive speed boost for the CF card by using the IDE port on the TF1260 this was off course something I would need to consider.

I had ordered these 18x18x20mm heatsinks for this exact CPLD before. The left one is the original form and the right one is the heatsink cut down and modified. I dont like to do fabricating as it gets so messy and difficult to get good results with hand tools. I will probably order a new heatsink in the correct height in the future.

Here I am test fitting the heatsink.

And here it is secured to the chip. I use a thermal pad from AlphaCool that I cut to fit myself. The thermal pad from AlphaCool is somewhat thicker than what you usually get when you order heatsinks from Aliexpress. The thicknes is 0.5 mm, the thermal pad is also softer and more gooier than regular flat thermal pad. Once secured with the AlphaCool thermal tape, these pads wont go anywhere, they are secured very firmly. I highly recommend these AlphaCool thermal tape and would use them even on the 060 with a large heatsink without no problem or worry that the heatsink would fall off (even if mounted vertical!)

So here we are, everything fits now. But to use the IDE port on the TF1260 I need to burn a custom Kickstart with ehide.device, more on that when I will get to it.

And about finding a solution for cooling down the 060? I have not got a clue, I will probably need to cut down a thin copper plate and place a heatsink on it offsett from the CPU. Not ideal, but better than nothing. A small heatpipe cooler leading heat to fins over the top of the cards close to the floppy drive would be ideal, but prototyping a cooler like that would take weeks and lots of money. I will see what I will come up with.

Practice makes you perfect (when building an Amiga motherboard)

Posted on February 20, 2025 by erkorh

Motorola 68030 25Mhz on the A3000D motherboard (ReAmiga 3000 SMC version)

I am working on a ReAmiga 3000 motherboard. I am in no rush to finish it, taking it really slow ordering one set of parts at a time. Last week I got the 68030 so I decided to solder it on the motherboard this weekend. Hopefully I will be able to do a test drive before Q1 is over!

Its called Amiga life…

Posted on February 2, 2025 by erkorh

Its called Amiga life when you power up your Amiga computer and you are greeted with an unexplainable error.

You can have the most stable system ever, but that day will eventually come when something will break – either you did it yourself or something happened by itself.

That happened to me recently, my trusty A4000TX stopped working, showing a frozen screen on boot.

What had happened? I suspected it was because I removed a Zorro card with the PSU ATX stand by power not shut off, it should not, but could have. Nobody knows for sure.

After tearing down the system to bare minimum I consulted the creator of the A4000TX.

Suggestion was to remove Lisa, Alice and the VideoDAC and test them on an other Amiga (paid off to have a second A4000TX with sockets this time!).

Another suggestion was to run Diagrom with serial port output. Surprisingly the Amiga was fully working (except graphics output) in serial output!

All chips worked fine on my secondary A4000TX (that had sockets for the chips)! What else to do? Put all three chips back again and send it off for a grand inspection at someone more knowledgeable.

While desoldering the Alice chip one solder pad lifted off the PCB. Now one problem grew into a larger problem…

Always good to have spare parts at home, I scraped off the slot pad from a cheap PCIe card and super glued it to the broken pad space on the A4000TX – Then I made sure it made contact to the traces by soldering wires to it from traces.

And guess what!? After soldering all the three chips back to the A4000TX it works fine again!

C‘est la vie

Another Mini version of GBAPII++ built and tested

Posted on January 6, 2025 by erkorh

I got the opportunity last year during fall to purchase a GBAPII++ mini graphics card with all passives already mounted. Only thing it did not have was the Cirrus Logic chip, memory chp and the CPLD (and some small components). The mini version of the GBAPII++ is the same card functionality wise as the regular one. You can read about the regular GBAPII++ here, you can read about the mini version of the card here.

As I was going to build the regular version of the graphics card in parallell I got lazy when I put together the BOM and assumed that the voltage regulator was the same for both of the cards. I was wrong, the GBAPII++ mini uses another voltage regulator, which explains why I could not program the CPLD and why the voltage regulator was running very hot on the card once I had built it.

Having received another shipment of components from Mouser late last year in December with the correct voltage regulator, I was anxious to find out if I had fried the card or if it was going to work. Happy to tell you the card in the picture is working fine after I swapped the voltage regulator to the correct one!

Whats the point of such a small Amiga graphics card?

I use my other GBAP2++ mini card in my Mini-ITX Amiga Denise but I think I will use this one in another big box Amiga. As you can see the Denise is installed in a very low profile case – The tiny card makes it possible to use a small case. If anyone is wondering what case I am running, it is a Chieftec IX-01B Mini-ITX case but it has the CD/DVD addition stacked on top of it to make room for the graphics card (Chieftec MK-35DV).

This Amiga is based on the Denise Mini-ITX A500+ clone motherboard. It has a TF356 68030 turbo card with 64MB memory, a 4 GB CF card and an Indivision ECS MK3, it also has a GBAP2++ mini graphics card. The video output from the VGA connector is beautifully switched from native ECS to P96 output (and vice versa).

Here is another closeup of the card running fine in my Denise Amiga clone.

ReAmiga 1200 build (white PCB) finished

Posted on December 18, 2024 by erkorh

I built a ReAmiga 1200 late last year using a black PCB. Once built I knew I wanted a backup ReA1200. I usually build systems in pairs, one for usage and one for backup or testing purposes. I always have a purpose for stuff I get since I do not believe in hoarding up stuff for hoarding purposes only. I am not into this just to build a huge collection to gather dust.

The first ReAmiga 1200 I built had a black PCB and is running in a black A1200.net case so I decided to go for another color than black this time. The only color I found, since I did not want to order a batch of PCBs myself, was white so thats what I got.

Closeup of the white ReAmiga 1200 motherboard

As with the last ReAmiga 1200 PCB I built this build went really smooth. I used components from a broken A1200 PCB that I desoldered with an hot air rework station. I also got connectors from that donor board. Other stuff like the PCMCIA connector and the odd chip here and there was ordered from AliExpress, Sordan and from ebay.de.

Of course the majority of passives and some chips came from Mouser. This time I used the same color for all LEDs -green- unlike my last one that has a mix of different colors. I sort of wish I got red LEDs instead of green, perhaps if I build a third one (j/k).

The ReA1200 motherboard is installed in the original Commodore A1200 case

I was thinking of keeping this PCB in storage or getting a white A1200.net case but then I remembered that I had a genuine Amiga 1200 case I got before. Most A1200 cases are in bad shape these days but this one was actually in relatively fine shape. Notice the Centurion tech backplate that I used instead of the metal shield. It looks much better than the flimsy original shield.

Even the floppy drive and cables was original (not the screws though)

As a bonus, that case had all the parts to make it a full A1200. The floppy drive, cables, LED lights for HDD, floppy and power and the keyboard.

Here is the ReAmiga 1200 fully built in the Commdore A1200 case with orginal keys.

And believe it or not, the plastic threads for the screws was not stripped or cracked. The keyboard was relatively white too and had not gone too yellow over the years. Testing the system (there is no HDD inside it) it works fine and I actually did have a plan for this system, sometimes in the future when the scandoubler arrives for the PiStorm32 I will try PiStorm32 on it. But as it stands right now its going into my storage.

Got my ZZ9000AX Amiga sound card running

Posted on October 4, 2024 by erkorh

The ZZ9000AX Amiga sound card for the ZZ9000 graphics card

UPDATE: 20251122 – This page is obsolete, read this article instead
UPDATE: 20251122 – This page is obsolete, read this article instead
UPDATE: 20251122 – This page is obsolete, read this article instead

There is a sound card for the ZZ9000 Amiga graphics card called the ZZ9000AX. It is a small soundcard that is attached directly to the ZZ9000 Amiga Zorro slot graphics card.

I had some problems with the ZZ9000AX

Keep in mind that I am running the card on an unofficial Amiga motherboard (A4000TX). So the reason for me having problems might be because of that and not the fault of the soundcard.

I got A ZZ9000AX last year but had massive problems getting it running well. The ZZ9000AX seemed to be picking up noise off the bus and had a disturbingly loud background buzz that never stopped. Paula sound is passed through the ZZ9000AX from the ZZ9000 through a three wire cable.

When Paula output was passed through the ZZ9000AX it just sounded horrible. Sometimes distorted, sometimes just totally blurred in background noise. Sound output so far from the regular crystal clear Amiga sound output I was used to.

I contacted MNT about the problem and I was sent a replacement card from MNT – But it did not fix the problems, just introduced different sounding problems. As I was running it in my A4000TX which is a non standard Amiga model (with no public schematics) it is difficult to say where the problem lies. There might be some kind of difference between an A4000D CR (that the A4000TX is based on) and an A4000TX that introduces these problems into the audio output.

I am going to test my card on my other Zorro 3 machines in the future to find out if it is the fault of the A4000TX or not (will update this text). But the card was sadly unusable for me in my A4000TX.

Finding a solution

ZZ9000AX with external to internal cable

Playing around with the card I noticed that if I removed the three wire cable that connected Paula audio output into the ZZ9000AX (you can see it attached to the card above) the card was beautifully silent, no bus noise, no irritating static and no weird noises. Playing MP3s worked fine as they where being played on the ZZ9000AX and not on the Paula.

The A4000TX is a clone of the Amiga 4000CR and shares the same features, one which is a input header on the motherboard originally meant for CD audo to be merged with Paula output.

So I got an idea to remove the three cable wire that connects the ZZ9000AX to the ZZ9000 altogether and route the output from the ZZ9000AX into the input header on the motherboard instead.

That means that the output of the soundcard was mixed into the sound jack of the A4000TX.

Cable in detail, it is just a simple cable, nothing special to be honest

I created this little cable just to prove if it could work. I will make a nicer looking cable in the future. The A4000D and the A4000TX (that is based on the A4000D CR) has a audio in input on the motherboard, likely for CD-ROM input or for AV purposes.

It is connected to line in on the A4000TX motherboard so it gets mixed into the output for the sound socket.

You can see the cable connected to the audio input header on the image above. It is a messy setup, but the system is in a state of work in progress at the moment.

The cable is just a nasty quick hack, I will do something better here in the future

Here is the backside of the A4000TX and how I route the cables to the internal audio input. No doubt I will create a more neat solution in the future, but for now this will do.

Does the fix work?

Yes it does, I have configured AmigaAMP to use the MHI drivers for MP3 playback. Both MHI and AHI works fine. There is no bus noise and no ringing noises in the background. The sound output is dead silent when the Amiga is not producing any sound – Just as it was meant to be and how I expect it to be. And best of all, playing modules in an module player sounds crystal clear. Playing MP3s on my Amiga sounds just as they do on my PC now!

There is just one little problem

There is one disadvantage of this setup, and that is that the audio input header on the Amiga 4000 motherboard lowers the noise a bit compared to Paula output. I have not found a fix for this yet. One fix would be to run a separate mixer that mixes ZZ9000AX and Paula audio into one, however that just sounds too messy, so I will stick with this solution and just increase the audio level a bit whenever I run something on the ZZ9000AX card.