Category Archives: Amiga hardware

Solas RGB LED controller board for Amiga

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Solas installed in my ReAmiga 1200, it is the blue board to the left of the floppy drive

I have recently been playing around with the highly sought after Solas. The Solas is an RGB LED controller for the Amiga, it also has some other interesting functions. Solas connects to the Amiga on the clock port and can control two LED strips. Solas has also the ability to control fan speed and measure temps. It is also a clock port multiplier!

While I am not very interested in RGB lightning in computers typically the difference here is that the RGB lights can react to the sound the Amiga is putting out. When playing a module you can see the LED strip jumping to the beat of the music. How nice!

I enjoy playing modules on the Amiga and all kind of graphical visualizers for module players are all kinds of awesome. The more the better – I have been thinking of hooking up external VU meters for many years but to have them integrated into the Amiga is much better!

Before we contionue – If you are interested in the Solas board I highly suggest visiting the official Amiga Solas website and ordering one now! These days, good things come in small batches in the world of Amiga and if you dont hop on the train before it has left the station, sometimes it never comes back.

Building the Solas LED controller

I like building hardware myself so I asked if I could get the Solas as a kit, which I could. I also got a second Solas already built, it is a long story why and I wont write it down here to bore anyone. Lets just say, resistors can go bad sometimes and sometimes it can be good to have an oscilloscope in your toolbox (I dont have one).

Here is the Solas in kit form. A nice mix of through hole parts and surface mount components. Also note all the cables for the temp sensors and power cable.

Front side of Solas Amiga RGB LED controller PCB

The square space if for the chip that needs to be programmed. You can also see all through holes for pin headers and clock ports. The manual comes in really handy here in understanding how everything is tied together.

Backside of Solas PCB
Programing the PIC microchip on the Solas

I thought I could program the Solas with my RPI. I have successfully managed to program many projects that uses Xilinx CPLDs with the RPI but was not successful in this case. So I got a cheap Pickit programmer. It is not visible in the image above though but worked fine – setting up the Pickit programmer with the correct software and settings was a nightmare though.

So here is the little PCB finally fully built and installed in the A1200. As it connects to the clock port it is very important that it is fitted correctly on the bottom pins. If you use a cable and mount it wrong way, expect card to break. Why would you mount it on a cable? Say you have an Amiga 1200 tower, it might be better to mount it on a cable so that a Zorro 2 or Mediator backplane can be fitted in the tower. Mounting Solas on a cable is also relevant if you have a clock port in a big box Amiga through a Zorro card.

Next steps, connecting all the cables to Solas and Amiga 1200

Installing and adding cables to Solas in an Amiga 1200

The manual is very good at explaining how you hook up all the cables, it is slightly confusing doing this without consulting the manual trying to figure it out yourself so in this case the manual is a must read (lol). In the image above, there is a small PCB that sits under the upper Kickstart chip and hooks up to the Solas with two wires. That is for activating the other clock ports on the Solas (IIRC).

How to connect sound output into Solas on a ReAmiga 1200?

Pin header for mono sound input to the Solas on the ReAmiga 1200 v1.5

Since I was using a ReAmiga 1200 and not a Commodore made Amiga 1200 there is one difference that needs to be taken care of. On a genuine Commodore Amiga 1200, you can pick up mono sound from the modulator. But the ReAmiga 1200 does not have a RF modulator and is missing the mono output there. On later ReAmiga 1200 (I have v 1.5) there is space for a pin header close to the keyboard MPU chip where you can pick up mono sound (see image above where I have soldered on one pin header to the motherboard). Also note the place above and to the right of the pin header where you have to add a 10uf ceramic capacitor. I have not added the capacitor on the picture above.

To get the Solas to react to sound input I also had to place a 10k resistor inline with the cable connected to the pin header and to the Solas board. After that, everything worked fine!

ReAmiga 1200 with Solas installed

So here you can the full setup. Unfortunately it looks a bit messy with the Indivision, CF adapter and all the cables all over the place. It is possible to clean it up a bit, but for testing purposes this was fine. You can also see where I placed the RGB LED strip. I ended up super gluing the LED strip to the case because the sticky backside was not sticky enough. I routed the cable from the Indivision MK3 under the Solas board, made it look much cleaner and works fine.

RGB LED strip is mounted to the underside of the upper Amiga 1200 case

Closeup of where the RGB LED strip is mounted. Even though it is mounted upside down in a solid black case it works fine and you can clearly see the light the LEDs are emitting when they are lit.

SolasControl – Software to control Solas

Use SolasControl to configure the Solas board in the Amiga

Solas comes with a great MUI based program that lets you configure Solas. The way this works is that you configure Solas, then you save your settings to the Flash on the Solas. That means that Solas will work with software that fully takes control of the Amiga.

SolasControl is an easy to use program, in the image above I have configured Solas to show a solid green light when the Amiga 1200 is idle. It looks like this:

Solas configured to show a solid green color when the A1200 is idle

Solas styles and events

As you can see on the image of SolasControl, you can set the level of brightness for the LED and in the highest strength the LEDs are very bright. I usually do not run the LEDs at the highest brightness.

Styles you can chose from in SolasControl

A static color is a bit boring. There are many styles you can chose from, my favorite is a rainbow scroll with a low brightness setting when idle. See the video below to see an example of it where I chosed blue and red as colors for the scroll.

Speed, colors, brightness and size depending on style chosed can be configured to ones preferences.

There are in total five types you can set the Solas to react to, Idle, Floppy access, HDD access, PCMCIA access and Audio. Idle just means when Solas is idle (when the other types are not active). Audio is when there is audio output and floppy/HDD and PCMCIA is when there are activity on these devices.

I like to run Star Trek Viewer for HDD Access, its a nice effect when accessing the HDD. I also as said before run Rainbow Scroll with a low brightness setting when idle. And finally, the pièce de résistance, audio. I like Level Meter (VU) for audio!

RGB LEDs reacting to Amiga sound

Playing a module in HippoPlayer on the A1200 and watching the RGB LEDs react to sound

I want to point out that I usually run a little more fancy Workbench (even on this non GFX board AGA only Amiga 1200 WB 3.1), but in this case I toned it down a lot to clarify images.

In the image above I play a module in HippoPlayer, I have also configured Solas to show Level Meter when sound is playing. And I think it looks fabulous!

This is actually why I think the Solas is so exciting since I wanted a hardware device like this for the Amiga for a long time. I remember looking for similar types of hardware on AliExpress more than 15 years ago that could be added to a 5.25 bracket back when I had an Amiga 1200 tower. But this is so much better since it can be configured on the Amiga!

What about controlling fans and measuring temps with the Solas?

Solas comes with two sensors you can place where you want to. I placed one on my Indivision (as it runs very hot) and the other on Alice as it also runs hot. It is possible to add a cable between TerribleFire 1260 and Solas to measure 060 temps, but I have not had time to do that yet, but thats on the todo list.

The fan control function is very interesting particularly if using the Solas in a big box Amiga with many Zorro cards and hot CPUs. I think this is a nice alternative to CPLDIcy.

Usefulness of more than one clock port?

There are exciting developments in the Amiga hardware world where some users have created clock port based WIFI cards for the Amiga. There are sound cards for the clock port and USB cards. So having more than one clock port can actually be usefull – who knows what type of hardware will be released for it in the future. Having a couple extra feels great for the future.

Solas and big box Amiga computers

It is possible to add a clock port to a big box Amiga with Zorro slots through an old Buddha card, ZORRO-IDE-LAN-CP card and many other cards. That makes it possible to run Solas in an A2000, A3000 or A4000.

Solas ISA carrier

There is also this exciting ISA card that functions as a carrier for the Solas. As you probably already know, ISA slots in an Amiga are totally passive, meant to be used for PC bridgeboards or TBC cards. so the Solas ISA carrier only provides power to the Solas. It has some useful pin headers though.

Solas mounted on the ISA carrier

Mounting the Solas to the ISA carrier board needs a slightly modified Solas card. One also needs to figure out how to connect sound to the Solas. I figured out that I can take it from pin headers on the ZZ9000 graphics card I am running in my Amiga 4000TX.

How I got sound input into the Solas from the ZZ9000

So here is how I hooked up sound input from the ZZ9000 graphics card to the Solas. Unfortunately the picture is a bit grainy but you get the point, L/R goes into the Solas ISA carrier. Also, it is a temporary cable as only two wires are needed.

Here is how the Solas is connected to the clock port of the Zorro-LAN-IDE card

And here is how the Solas is connected to the clock port on the Zorro-LAN-IDE card.

Keep in mind though if you have maxed out your Amiga expansion slots (we are all Amiga snobs left in this hobby right?) this sandwich of the carrier card and the Solas can be difficult to fit as it takes up more height than a regular card – And even more height with the cables connected to it!

I should also show you the LED setup I am running, I am running two LED strips on the inner sides of the front of the case. It looks awesome when playing tunes.

Final thoughs

As you can probably tell, I have only positive things to say about Solas. Highly recommended! I also think the Solas board is one of the greatest hardware developments for the Amiga in recent years (together with PiStorm and open hardware such as BFG and TF series of cards). Great work everybody involved with it 👍

68060 rev. 6 71E41J tested and successfully overclocked to 100MHz in my Amiga 1200

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I bought a 68060 revision 6 (71E41J) recently for a very good price. The rev. 6 CPU can usually do a really good overclock, often reaching 100MHz or more, which makes them very sought after and sometimes fakes are offered as the genuine version of the CPU. As I was already running an 060 in my Amiga 1200 I was not sure if it was worth swapping CPUs to gain more megaherts. The rev. 5 68060 I was running could do a 66MHz overclock but ran very hot. And a 50MHz 060 is not a slow CPU (in the world of Amiga).

Swapping 68060 CPUs in my Amiga 1200

I decided to swap CPUs because I wanted to test performance of an Amiga without a graphics card but with a fast CPU and high resolutions (like HighGFX and highres laced). Luckily removing the CPU was not a difficult task, prying on the corners of the socket it was out in less than 5 minutes ready to go into another one of my systems. Once the rev. 6 CPU was inserted into the Terrible Fire 1260 I was eager to do a test. Sure enough, it did not complain anything running at 100MHz!! (keep in mind I had a heatsink on the CPU when doing tests). Next time I will try 106MHz!!

Is there actually a noticeable difference between a 50 and a 100 MHz 68060?

Would I be able to detect any difference between a 50MHz 060 and a 100MHz 060 or would it only be noticeable in a benchmark program?

I was not too sure – When I had overclocked my 060 in my Amiga 4000TX from 50 to 100MHz I could feel that icons loaded faster, drawers just popped up, Workbench was just smoother and more responsive. But I was not sure if it was my imagination or reality.

With that said, I was surprised that my 100% non scientific mean of measuring the difference between a 50 and a 100MHz CPU in the following AGA Amiga Workbench screenmodes highres, highres laced, HighGFX @ 1024×768 (all screen modes in 64 colors) proved that there really was a difference!

Workbench had become even faster and more responsive. Running 3.1 with the stock Commodore 4 color icons, icons did not load anymore, they just popped up, almost all at once, drawers opened up instantly. The system speed by at such a high rate I had only witnessed something like this in WinUAE. What an amazing experience!

I changed background colors to 256 colors and could sense little to no slowdown from a 64 color screenmode. Sure, I have to test this more, but the early results are great, this is what base level Amiga should be like! Lets bring on 200MHz 060 (lets crowd fund it lol).

Cooling problems

Before I permanently run this computer at 100MHz I have to figure out a good cooling solution for the CPU. This rev.6 68060 runs cooler than the old rev. 5 I had in it before. But overclocking it makes it run slightly hotter. I suspect its above 50 degrees but not more than 60. I have some ideas on how to cool it down but will have to sleep on the ideas a little more before I pull the trigger on the stuff I need to build one..

Terrible Fire TF1260 CPLD cooling

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I have a Terrible Fire TF1260 in my Amiga 1200. I used to have an Apollo 1240 upgraded to 060 in it and was very happy with that card (despise what other said about the card, it was very stable for me). Time marches on though and the TF1260 started to look more and more impressive, so I built one last year. The TF1260 supports overclocking by software. One comment I read was that the chances of a good overclock improved if you put heatsinks on the two CPLD chips.

Keep in mind that I had a heatsink on the 060 when doing overclocking tests. But the space between the 060 and keyboard is so tight it was very difficult finding a heatsink in my stash that would fit with the keyboard installed. I have actually not solved this yet, thus I just focused on the CPLDs and will try to solve the 060 heatsink some other day, until then it will run at 50Mhz.

The problem with the CPLD cooler is that the right CPLD need a short heatsink if you want to run a compact flash adapter over it. As you can get an impressive speed boost for the CF card by using the IDE port on the TF1260 this was off course something I would need to consider.

I had ordered these 18x18x20mm heatsinks for this exact CPLD before. The left one is the original form and the right one is the heatsink cut down and modified. I dont like to do fabricating as it gets so messy and difficult to get good results with hand tools. I will probably order a new heatsink in the correct height in the future.

Here I am test fitting the heatsink.

And here it is secured to the chip. I use a thermal pad from AlphaCool that I cut to fit myself. The thermal pad from AlphaCool is somewhat thicker than what you usually get when you order heatsinks from Aliexpress. The thicknes is 0.5 mm, the thermal pad is also softer and more gooier than regular flat thermal pad. Once secured with the AlphaCool thermal tape, these pads wont go anywhere, they are secured very firmly. I highly recommend these AlphaCool thermal tape and would use them even on the 060 with a large heatsink without no problem or worry that the heatsink would fall off (even if mounted vertical!)

So here we are, everything fits now. But to use the IDE port on the TF1260 I need to burn a custom Kickstart with ehide.device, more on that when I will get to it.

And about finding a solution for cooling down the 060? I have not got a clue, I will probably need to cut down a thin copper plate and place a heatsink on it offsett from the CPU. Not ideal, but better than nothing. A small heatpipe cooler leading heat to fins over the top of the cards close to the floppy drive would be ideal, but prototyping a cooler like that would take weeks and lots of money. I will see what I will come up with.

Multifix AGA Amiga scandoubler and flicker fixer

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The Multifix scandoubler is another great hardware project by talented Amiga hardware DIYselfer Matze. Read more about the Multifix AGA scandoubler and flicker fixer here.

What is a scandoubler and flicker fixer?

In my humble opinion a scandoubler is a must have for an Amiga. It lets you display native screen modes on a regular PC monitor. A flicker fixer is great to have also, it means you can use higher resolutions screenmodes without nasty flicker. There is however less reason to use flicker fixer modes in Workbench if you have an RTG graphics card since an RTG screen is faster than a flicker fixed screen typically.

Building and testing the Multifix AGA scandoubler and flicker fixer

I have to be honest, the first time I looked at the project page I did not have a clue on how to build it. But after having finished a couple of projects and being more used to projects with less documentation I felt ready to tackle this beautiful scandoubler.

The Multifix integrates well with the GBAP2++ Amiga RTG graphics card, being able to hook up directly to the graphics board. Doing so auto switches output between scandoubled/flickerfixed output and RTG output meaning, you could run the graphics board and scandoubler in one aligned Zorro slot and video slot.

It is difficult for me to say something about the video output since on a CRT the picture quality is probably superb. I do not have a CRT so can only test on modern flat screens. And also, I am using a cheap VGA to HDMI converter that introduces lots of banding on the output. The picture quality on my TFT is not as good as I get from an Indivision or ZZ9000. But even with the cheap VGA to HDMI converter, I have seen worse banding with other VGA scandoublers and with that said, the colors are correct. Overall I am very happy even if the picture quality is not as sharp as those other devices I mentioned. And the picture quality might be even better with another flat screen or a genuine VGA screen.

OKI M5142 and NEC 42101 are also used on the Amiga 3000

Difficult to find chips

There are some chips on the scandoubler that is a bit difficult to find and it is the OKI M5142 and NEC 42101. One card uses six chips of each. As usual, some chips pop up here and there on Ebay and there are the usual places where you can find these chips (Aliexpress). If you do some research you might even find clones of these chips that are fully compatible.

ADV7120KP30 is the same chip the A4000D uses, I got 5 from Aliexpress last year for my A4000D build so had 4 to chose from.

Anyways, building this Amiga scandoubler/flickerfixer is very straight foward.

Ports and switches on the back

The backside of the Multifix AGA is kind a busy, more so than a typical scandoubler that usually only has a 15 pin female VGA port.

You might wonder why it has two USB ports, two switches and an audio port on the back. I did too, and it is not quite obvious why by reading the documentation on Git-lab. Turns out, the USB ports provides power only, meaning, you can use these for devices that uses USB power such as VGA to HDMI converters. There is a pinout on the Multifix PCB so you can hook up the USB ports to your USB card saving one bracket space. The switches disables the flicker fixer functionality and the scandoubler functionality (useful if you just want to pass through video output). And what about the audio output? I think the card picks up audio from the video slot so you might be able to get sound from here (I am not sure though, will need to test that sometime).

Oh, and that bracket, it was not made by me, I found a guy on a1k.org who could sell me two (I plan to build another), I could never make one that good looking myself.

GottaGoFaZt3r 256 MB Zorro 3 memory card

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GottaGoFaZt3r 256 MB RAM Zorro 3 card for the Amiga

GottaGoFaZt3r is a memory card for Zorro 3 big box Amiga computers that you can build or buy premade. Find out more information about the GottaGoFaZt3r Amiga memory card here.

Amiga with a Zorro 2 bus supports up to 8 MB memory on the Zorro 2 bus, that memory is shared with other devices on the bus so if you have a graphics card with 2 MB you can only have 6 MB additional fast mem on the Zorro 2 bus. With Zorro 3 that is IIRC increased to 1 GB.

Phase 5 Fastlane vs GottaGoFaZt3r

Before this card was released there was not a huge offering of Zorro 3 memory cards, the most famous was probably the Fastlane from Phase 5, a huge full size Zorro 3 memory card that uses rare 30 pin memory and commanded high prices on the second hand market. The Fastlane has 16 30-pin SIMM sockets and can be expanded to 256 MB, but that would require 16 very rare 16 MB 30-pin SIMM memory. Phase 5 made awesome hardware back in the day but time marches on.

While the Fastlane was also a SCSI card the GottaGoFaZt3r is just a memory card. Where the Fastlane is full size the modern card is a mini half size Zorro 3 card. It is autodetected and just does one thing, adding more memory to your Z3 Amiga.

Whats the point of a 256 MB memory card in an Amiga?

The GottaGoFaZt3r can be built to be a 128 MB card or 256 MB card. Off course I went for the 256 MB option. While this could be seen as just bragging rights to be able to pump up your Amiga with a 256 MB memory card, keep in mind that this is actually usable on an Amiga, even with oldschool applications thanks to being able to use the memory card as a huge RAM disk.

Some comments about building the GottaGoFaZt3r Amiga memory card

Memory and CPLD was sourced from China, other than those parts its a very straight forward BOM. The build is also very simple. While the BOM does not mentions a capacitor at C1 I got the recommendations to add one so thats what I did.

My setup

In total there is 660 MB Fast RAM in my Amiga 4000TX

I installed the GottaGoFaZt3r card in my A4000TX. Currently the memory setup looks like this on my Amiga 4000TX which is alsy my primary Amiga.

  • GottaGoFaZt3r: 256 MB
  • BFG9060: 128 MB
  • ZZ9000: 256 MB

I will add 128 MB fast ram to the motherboard (which will be used as 96 MB by the A4000TX), so in the future I will have 736 MB fast mem in my daily driver. Currently the memory is reported as 660 MB as I have a memory stick that is not really supported by the TX so it only partially works.

Another Mini version of GBAPII++ built and tested

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I got the opportunity last year during fall to purchase a GBAPII++ mini graphics card with all passives already mounted. Only thing it did not have was the Cirrus Logic chip, memory chp and the CPLD (and some small components). The mini version of the GBAPII++ is the same card functionality wise as the regular one. You can read about the regular GBAPII++ here, you can read about the mini version of the card here.

As I was going to build the regular version of the graphics card in parallell I got lazy when I put together the BOM and assumed that the voltage regulator was the same for both of the cards. I was wrong, the GBAPII++ mini uses another voltage regulator, which explains why I could not program the CPLD and why the voltage regulator was running very hot on the card once I had built it.

Having received another shipment of components from Mouser late last year in December with the correct voltage regulator, I was anxious to find out if I had fried the card or if it was going to work. Happy to tell you the card in the picture is working fine after I swapped the voltage regulator to the correct one!

Whats the point of such a small Amiga graphics card?

I use my other GBAP2++ mini card in my Mini-ITX Amiga Denise but I think I will use this one in another big box Amiga. As you can see the Denise is installed in a very low profile case – The tiny card makes it possible to use a small case. If anyone is wondering what case I am running, it is a Chieftec IX-01B Mini-ITX case but it has the CD/DVD addition stacked on top of it to make room for the graphics card (Chieftec MK-35DV).

This Amiga is based on the Denise Mini-ITX A500+ clone motherboard. It has a TF356 68030 turbo card with 64MB memory, a 4 GB CF card and an Indivision ECS MK3, it also has a GBAP2++ mini graphics card. The video output from the VGA connector is beautifully switched from native ECS to P96 output (and vice versa).

Here is another closeup of the card running fine in my Denise Amiga clone.

OpenA1200RTC – Amiga real time clock built

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The final Amiga hardware project of the year for me is this nice mini hardware kit for the Amiga 1200, the OpenA1200RTC. A real time clock that you can hook up to an Amiga that has a clock port. Find out more about the OpenA1200RTC here. The real time clock makes the Amiga 1200 keep track of time.

Building the OpenA1200RTC

This was a very simple 20 minute build containing only 13 parts. The only moderately difficult to find part is probably the RTC chip which can be found on Ebay or AliExpress.

What is the clock port in an Amiga?

The Amiga 1200 has a port famously dubbed the “clock port”. The clock port is a 2 mm double row 22 pin header close to the CPU slot. It was rarely used for its intended purpose, to host a real time clock, since hardware engineers figured out how to hook up sound cards, serial ports and other things to it.

There are some Zorro cards that also has clock ports. That means it is possible to run clock port hardware on a big box Amiga that can carry Zorro cards.

So what do you use an RTC for anyways on an Amiga?

The main purpose of having an RTC such as the OpenA1200RTC is for the Amiga to not lose time when it is powered off. Having your computer keep track on time is not only usable for having a clock on the desktop. If the computer keeps track of time, that means all files will have timestamps for when they were created or last edited. It is possible to sync date and time with a server over the internet but it could be handy to have an internal RTC on an Amiga that is not hooked up to the internet a majority of time. Also, it could be nice to finally use the clock port for its intended application once.

BFG9060 Amiga 060 turbo card in PCB color red fully built and tested

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BFG9060 with rev 1 68060 under testing in my A4000TX

I built a BFG9060 060 turbo card last year that I could clock to 100Mhz, this is the second BFG9060 I have built and it is in a cool red PCB color. Thanks to the Xilinx programmer I got I could finally program the CPLDs on it but did not have time testing it fully. Now that I have tested it I can finally confirm that it is working 100%.

Actually, I just ran Quake for an hour with it mounted in my primary Amiga, my A4000TX daily driver, and the card performed just fine. Once I have it permanently installed in one of my big box Amigas I will do a proper 24h POVRay fish render test. But as it is now, I am happy with how it performed!

Mystery 68060 CPU

I got this 68060 chip from Vesalia years ago (probably 12+ years ago), and for a really good price too. It was a deal too good to pass on even though I did not know what to do with it. Well I am happy that I kept it but for all these years I wondered three things:

  1. Did it work?
  2. What kind of 060 was it?
  3. Is it a fake? Why did it have these strange markings and not the typical Motorola markings?

The answer to those questions are:

  1. Yes the 68060 works fine! And it does not get that hot either (though I have a heatsink/fan on it).
  2. It is a rev 1 68060.
  3. It is not a fake 060 – It came from a Phase 5 turbo card – Phase 5 used to add this text to the 060s on the turbo cards.

While the CPU works, it is a little bit of a bummer that it is a rev 1 as that revision has bugs. But there are work arounds for that so it does not really matter. Unfortunately, as its rev 1, that means no 100Mhz overclock. But to be honest with you, I am glad just having another full (MMU/FPU) 060 on a big box Amiga turbo card.

68060 low profile 5v cooler

I was afraid that the CPU I had was going to run too hot so I went into my stash of heatsinks to look for a suitable cooler for it. I found this thin 5v laptop cooler that I must have kept in my stash for more than 20 years. I got it from an old Acer Celeron laptop I found in the trash at a job I had and I was glad I finally found a use for it.

It is a thin radial fan that sits on an aluminium bottom plate that acts as a heatsink. I have not found modern alternatives in this size for a good price so I guess they have become rare these days.

I used thermal adhesive tape (also called “frag tape” BITD) to secure the heatsink to the CPU. Believe me, this thermal double sided adhesive tape has insane stickiness, there is no chance of the heatsink falling of the CPU if mounted vertically.

I can confirm, according to tests done with my finger, that the CPU does not run hot at all with the heatsink/fan on it. I am starting to wonder that maybe it was overkill, but if I end up using it in an A3000D case it might come in handy as that case has poor cooling performance.

A500-GraKa GBAPII++ Amiga Graphics Card built and tested

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GBAPII++ Amiga graphics card

This is the second GBAPII++ Amiga graphics card I have built. I finished the last bit of the build two weeks ago. Today I tested it in my Denise Amiga clone and could confirm that it was working fine. If you are interesting in building one yourself, check out more information about the graphics card here. There are some details about the background of the card there too.

Hardware specs

The GBAPII++ is a Zorro 2 based Amiga graphics card based around the Cirrus Logic GD5434 chip. It has 2 MB memory and is a relatively affordable Amiga graphics card. Occasionally you see users referring to the card as an open Picasso 2 card as you can order empty PCBs yourself and build it. But if you know Amiga hardware well this card is based on another chip. The similarities are close though, both cards has only 2 MB and is probably likewise in performance as they are both Zorro 2.

The VGA adapter plate has both output and input so its possible to run scandoubler output through one VGA output, very handy and a must have these days IMHO. I use mine with a Indivision MK3 and it works perfectly out of box. Or run it with the Multivision-AGA scandoubler.

It is possible to use the card on an Amiga 500 by soldering an 86 pin 2.54mm edge card slot to the side of the card, thats probably why the graphics card goes by the name A500-GraKa.

Components

The graphics card is based on the Cirrus Logic GD5434 chip

If you are thinking about building one I suggest you go looking for a GD5434 chip first. These chips are not impossible to find but can be pricey. I have paid between 20 to 40 euro each for Cirrus Logic GD5434 chips (currently have built four cards based on this chip). Finding an old VGA card and desoldering a chip with hot air is also a possibility.

The memory used is the same type of memory that is used in an Amiga 1200 1.4d revision. The typical SOJ40 2MB memory chips in the quantity of 4 chips.

I had difficulty finding the correct voltage crystal but eventually found the right one on AliExpress (and it worked too).

Building the graphics card

For some reason I thought building this card was incredibly confusing. I think the main reason is that I somehow got the build instructions for a previous revision of the A500GraKa card, once I got the correct file everything worked out fine! IIRC there are some solder pads marked as ferrite beads that should take resistors (or it was the other way). To find out what components go where one can look into the designer files, also study the BOM.

Performance

The graphics card works especially fine in lower resolutions and fewer colors like this 800×600 8 color Workbench

I have not tested performance yet and will probably never do, but make no mistake, this is no competition for a ZZ9000 graphics card. It is a fine card to use on a 030 based Amiga with a Zorro 2 bus as long as one do not go crazy on the amount of colors or resolution used. It is much better than using hires laced. I stick to 800×600 in 8 colors and it works fine.

Conclusion

The graphics card is hooked up to the VGA adapter plate that is fitted to a3D printed bracket

Many thanks for the creators of this card and previous cards it is based on. I think this card is a no brainer, just get one if you have an empty Zorro slot and no graphics card. I will list the good things first and negative later, these are strictly my personal opinions.

Positive

  • Half size card
  • Has a hole cut out for your finger so you can remove it easely
  • Autoswitch between scandoubler/VGA
  • Open card, PCBs can be ordered by yourself. There is also commercial version of it
  • There is a thread on a1k.org where you can ask questions about the card
  • Supported in P96 (so you can install the card with the P96 installer)

Negative

  • Somewhat confusing build instructions
  • Only has 2 MB
  • Is a Zorro 2 card so its slow (but still perfectly fine for lower resolutions/fewer colors)
Here is Doom running on the GBAPII++ Amiga Graphics Card

Finished building the Prometheus-Resurrector Amiga PCI board but could not program it

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I finished building the Prometheus-Resurrector PCI Amiga daughter board. If you where around 20 years ago you might remember PCI slots being the latest thing to add to your Amiga computer. It was as de-rigueur upgrading your Amiga to PCI slots as hacking your Amiga 1200 into a tower as tall as a kitchen table.

What is the Prometheus-Resurrector?

Prometheus-Resurrector is based on the Prometheus PCI daughter board from 20 years ago. If you are familiar you might know about the Firebird PCI daughter board for Amiga 4000 and Amiga 3000, they are sort of related. One difference between Prometheus-Resurrector and the original Prometheus is that this one is using Xilinx chips for CPLDs instead of rare, hard to find, Altera chips. Also, you can order PCBs yourself and build it.

The Prometheus slots into a Zorro 3 slot, then you have to be creative in how you mount the PCI cards as the cards sits 90 degrees from Zorro cards. Either you use PCI extenders or 90 degree PCI angle converters or just run them as is with extension cables to the backside of the Amiga chassi. No matter what option you chose, your Amiga, decked out with PCI cards, will look refreshingly hacked together just like all those towers-hacks looked like back in the day. How nostalgic.

Programing the Prometheus-Resurrector

Unfortunately the story, for this time, ends here as I got the wrong programmer from AliExpress. I failed to program both CPLDs with my trusty Raspberry Pi so I got this nice Xilinx programmer, totally offical (not), from China. However that did not help me program the chips, I think I got the wrong one. So until I get the other Xilinx programmer I ordered, the story ends here.

To be continued!